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Old 06-27-2006, 10:29 AM   #51
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Well this has been a very informative thread.. I must say! Thanks to all!

Oh wow, my first 50 post!
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Old 06-27-2006, 10:31 AM   #52
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Validus... what camera are you using?
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Old 06-27-2006, 10:34 AM   #53
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Johnny great pics what lens do you shoot with?
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Old 06-27-2006, 10:35 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by johnnyhey
lol, as an experienced shooter, i thought you know the difference between out of focus and camera blur. this is camera blur, shot around 1/60th sec.

there's an aesthetic value to it not being tack sharp but that eludes some. i shoot plenty of images for my own site/use and am granted the freedom of being my own AD. to each his own.

johnny o

. . just an amtaure . i'll leave the pro stuff up to you and arron mathews, dean and donny
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Old 06-27-2006, 10:41 AM   #55
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.....hot pix!
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Old 06-27-2006, 10:42 AM   #56
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. . just an amtaure . i'll leave the pro stuff up to you and arron mathews, dean and donny
Be nice wanton lol
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Old 06-27-2006, 10:51 AM   #57
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Validus... what camera are you using?
I am using a Canon 20D, EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS USM, and a Speedlite 580EX.
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Old 06-27-2006, 10:53 AM   #58
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I am using a Canon 20D, EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS USM, and a Speedlite 580EX.

hit me with an email
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Old 06-27-2006, 11:02 AM   #59
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Be nice wanton lol
yikes!!!
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Old 06-27-2006, 11:18 AM   #60
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Wow! So much useful information in this thread...Thanks all!
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Old 06-27-2006, 11:23 AM   #61
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OK heres some tips not mentioned...start by shooting in early morning or late evening light (called golden hour)

get your self a good circular polarizer

a light meter is not necessary if you are using a good digital camers most of those have great metering systems including a spot meter mode that will give you all the info you need to calculate the proper exposure

start by using the cameras matrix metering mode and take a few pics noting what it is using then switch to manual and and make subtle changes logging your exposures

remember shutter speed is for exposure and aperture is for depth of feild (generally speaking)

always use fill light with either a fill flash of a reflector or both

you will get the hang of it
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Old 06-27-2006, 11:37 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by mikesouth
OK heres some tips not mentioned...start by shooting in early morning or late evening light (called golden hour)

get your self a good circular polarizer

a light meter is not necessary if you are using a good digital camers most of those have great metering systems including a spot meter mode that will give you all the info you need to calculate the proper exposure

start by using the cameras matrix metering mode and take a few pics noting what it is using then switch to manual and and make subtle changes logging your exposures

remember shutter speed is for exposure and aperture is for depth of feild (generally speaking)

always use fill light with either a fill flash of a reflector or both

you will get the hang of it
Thanks for the tips
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Old 06-27-2006, 11:37 AM   #63
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Wow! So much useful information in this thread...Thanks all!

I just came across this...

http://web.canon.jp/Imaging/enjoydslr/index.html

You might like this too.
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Old 06-27-2006, 11:56 AM   #64
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Last edited by Validus; 06-27-2006 at 11:58 AM..
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Old 06-27-2006, 01:17 PM   #65
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nice thead! Very usefull information BTW!
Trying to hit you up on ICQ johnnyhey!
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Old 06-27-2006, 02:33 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by Anya
Yep Chase, gold does help warm up skin tones. I shot these with a gold reflector last year. Johnny knows the place well







Still learning, but experimenting does help

Anya
Wow. Great pics.

What gear are you using?
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Old 06-27-2006, 03:27 PM   #67
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scrim or bounce the light to stay within the dynamic range of the sensor and the surfer's monitor.

lots of ways to do it, there is no one "right way". the goal is to make people attractive, and this usually means creating the illusion of natural light. you should bounce or use fill most always if you want good files. shooting in shade will cause most WB to go blue so shoot the girl holding a color chart and then bulk tweak to warm it up. easiest if you are shooting raw.

some cameras require very little post processing. just bought a canon 5d and most images are pretty good straight out---nikon d200 is also good.

fuji pro is also good for high dynamic range and works with nikon lenses, good velvia like color that surfers like.
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Old 06-27-2006, 03:42 PM   #68
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awsome corrections
tips on photo editing?
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Old 06-27-2006, 03:59 PM   #69
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awsome corrections
tips on photo editing?
Well you know, I used to only shoot JPG format but shooting in RAW makes things so much easier. So, try shooting in RAW format and it pretty much does most of it itself.

Also, the histogram is a neat little tool. Check out this link:
http://web.canon.jp/Imaging/enjoydslr/p_4_005.html
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Old 06-27-2006, 11:10 PM   #70
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So you use a catch light with the flash or just "hit her" with the flash straight on?
straight on without the difuser
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Old 06-27-2006, 11:53 PM   #71
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nice thead! Very usefull information BTW!
Trying to hit you up on ICQ johnnyhey!

try it now, i had the wrong ICQ number in my sig. sorry
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Old 06-28-2006, 01:04 AM   #72
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some of these pics look like they are from the Azshootout...

I have a shoot this weekend out near canyon lake, using a full length gold reflector, canon 20d with a 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM lense.

model will be posing with my horse.. will post a picture if they turn out like I am hoping
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Old 06-28-2006, 06:00 AM   #73
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straight on without the difuser
Oh really? Hm, alright. Next time I will use the defuser plate thing... and give that a shot. I will also not shoot in the direct sunlight... and check the histogram while shooting.
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