Photography Lighting Question........
 

Getting some strobes for my photography. I've pretty much narrowed it down to this lighting kit:
http://www.alienbees.com/digi.html

Any strong comments either for or against me getting the alien bees?

They are GREAT lights! Belinda and I were recently given a kit as a gift from AaronM. We love them!

Yeah, everyone in "the know" has been steering me towards them. Did you get a light meter right away or did you hold off for awhile? $350 for the meter is gonna have to wait a month or two, after I just got $630 out of accounting. Damn bean counting partner! :winkwink:

Well, there you go...

I shoot video as well as still photos, so strobe lights are not a good option for me.

The light output sounds kind of low too (160W true, 400W effective x2 is only 320W and 800W respectively). I use three 600W lights.

Anyway, I don't think you can go wrong if you listen to AaronM and DP, since they both are highly skilled photographers.

ADG Webamster

Light meters are essential. Get one ASAP.

alien bees made in tn and great customer service

I like AlienBees.

i haven't used a light meter since i've gone digital. even on multi-light setups.

http://candydreams.com/upload/haley_bar113.jpg

http://candydreams.com/upload/haley_bar151.jpg

http://candydreams.com/upload/haley_bar227.jpg

Nice gift from AaronM to Donny. Maybe I should make sure Aaron has my address. Would make a nice contest giveaway too.

johnnyhey, nice shot of haley!

:eek2











































































:winkwink:

I've been using Paul Buff products for over 15 years and I'll be honest with you... I've been considering getting rid of my PB lights lately because I'm constantly having problems with them keeping consistant output at lower power levels. Sometimes I will move a softbox in close to the model and with it being that close I don't need a lot of power. When I start dialing down the power to low output levels, my meter jumps all over the place. I'll hold the meter in the same spot and meter the light and a few seconds later meter it again and it could (and does) fluxuate from a few 10th's of a stop up to 1/2 stop. 1/2 stop might not be much for a guy who is shooting amateur type shit but I'm trying to shoot a higher quality so 1/2 stop variance of exposure is enough to piss me off bad. I've sent all of my units in at least once for a checking out but they are still giving me problems so it's just a matter of time before I get rid of them and move on to a more reliable and dependable lighting kit.

I do video too, and pretty well too. Gotta take my photography up a few notches now.... Every one has said the strobes are the way to do it. Just gonna have to move the lights around now.

Yeah, that's what I figured. Gonna have to do it the johnnyhey way until I can pry some more equipment money outta Lori I guess.

not really sure that the paul buff stufff is pro gear. very many shooters use the stuff, however I prefer the speedotron stuff and love it, tried 4 different system before I settled on the speedos. might wannaa check out the novatron stuff too . .

Have no knowledge of those lights so can't comment. But if Aaron and Donavan use them they can't be too bad.

But DO GET A LIGHT METRE.

Many reasons, you need to know what the lights are doing and what power they are sending out. All locations will alter and a light metre will tell you this. Relying on what happened last time is silly and serves no purpose.

Plus models are impressed as you move around them with the light metre and infa red remote, flashing off the lights and adjusting them. models perception of you is very important.

You need two sets of lights, one for video and one for stills. Use switchable extension cables to switch for one to the other or shoot the stills then the video.

yes, i use lowel fren-l 650's hotlights for video, and speedotron with multiple strobe heads for stills---i don't like monolights so much after i ruined a couple when they fell on the stands; i had my speedotron gear modified so it can use 110 or 220V for overseas travel without transformers, the manufacturer can do this in chicago for about 100 bucks.

i don't use a light meter but shoot with firewire with orangemicro repeaters directly into a 19 laptop about 20 feet away and then tweak f-stop so the exposures look good---because as you move in and out away from the model you must constantly tweak your f/stop for distance, and taking individual light readings while your working slows me down to much---if you've got it you see it immediately on the laptop and you can go on to the next shot.

i do have the model hold a standard jobo color chart which gives a color reference, and then batch tweak WB to speed production.

but everyone has there own way.

Where can we see some of your work?

Ack! Why'd I want to take photos again? :winkwink: I was quite happy doing video. Get your lights set; white balance set; and then hold the fucking videocamera still and do your job. :1orglaugh The learning curve on photography (compaired to videography) reminds me of the first time I opened photoshop! Yikes.

Alright - Getting my strobes, and this book first. Then a good, cheap (Ha Ha) light meter is next on my list. Anything else I MUST have? Other then talent? :winkwink: Oh, btw - I'm shooting with the Nikon D70.

I've got a softbox (Photoflex) for my hot lights. Can I use my strobe inside it (with a speed ring or something)? If not I can just use the shoot thru umbrella that comes with the alien bees, and put a softbox third on the list.

some of you should try products of Hedler or Broncolor - those are high end pro lighting solutions.The true is that its more expensive but it worths the money

Dyna Lights baby, the alien bees are nice but they do not hold a candle to the Dynas. I have 2, 2000 watt Dyna Light setups and would never ever switch to another brand.
As far as a light meter goes, this is a essential part of your setup and cannot do without it, you need to make sure you have a perfect 8.0 on your lighting (at least thats what we strive for) lower and your pics are dark, higher and they get blown out. It doesnt have to be a expensive one but you need to have it.

This subject really is deep. I got a Canon 20D and the 580 flash from Canon as well. I don?t product ?content? just play with the camera.

You do this while you're shooting a set?

I would think it would put off the model if she was to keep stopping to look at her pictures.

Learnt to shoot on film and old habits die hard.

Ok, I found the cheapest light meter I could find. Already spent around $12k on equipment this year, and my partner is real tight with equipment this season. Will this one do everything I need it too? And almost more importantly, does anyone know of a cheaper one I can get, that will be acceptable too?

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...goryNavigation

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...goryNavigation

I have this one but the cheaper should be fine. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...goryNavigation

If you're learning it's a good idea to buy a meter but eventually your understanding of the histogram and developing eye will take priority.

A lot of shooters don't use meters when shooting digital and if your up for doing a shit load of test shots to get your exposure right on your main light, fill light, accent lights etc..etc..etc. then you can get by without a meter. I use a meter "extensively" thruout my shoots and my clients tell me that my work is more consistant in color and exposure then any other shooter that they buy content from. This of course makes less work for my clients who do their own color correction & retouching and it goes without saying how much they appreciate my attention to details like that.

My advice.....buy a meter and learn to use it. But, learn to use your histogram as well. Learning both of these tools will put you miles ahead of some of your competition :winkwink:

great lights :thumbsup

light meter = waste of money and time unless you're doing pro photography :2 cents:

I bought a $1500 Digital SLR instead of a $500 point and shoot, so I could at some point do this right, so I should probably be getting the light meter. Grumble grumble. Gotta read up on the histogram. Use it all the time in Photoshop when adjusting levels. Now gotta figure out what it means to my camera. Thanks everyone for the help.... Gonna order the lights tomorrow, and try to wesel a couple hundred more outta my partner tonight for the light meter. Anything else to help me out?

well a light meter (or more usually used a "flash meter") is not so important as understanding histogram.

because when you shoot skin you do not necessarily want an "average" exposure, because if you do you will blow out the highlights much of the time if you have a moody or contrastly light setup.

lots of guys have an average exposure, but the lighting is too hot on the girl, so highlight areas have lost detail---this is especially true with high rez cameras and shooting jpg.

best to use a camera body which has a very long tonal scale and expose for skin highlights, then adjust gamma, then balance levels.

nikon can visually show highlights that you have blown out with the histogram---i don't know if canon has this feature.

If you are referring to a white ass blinking then the answer is yes. :1orglaugh

any links for a total noob?

EDIT: never mind... I see there are links in this thread



(btw, I love our alien bees kit!)

Sounds like we're at just about the same level with photography. I'm using the Nikon D70... what do you have?

I'd love to see a pic of a model someone took, and then a farther away pic to see your light setup as compaired to the model. I know where to set them up for video quite well, but with the strobes I'm gonna be lost for awhile.

Is this info any good?
http://www.studiolighting.net/

I think you're right. Using a Canon digital Rebel and I feel like I get lucky sometimes...but I'd love to learn enough to KNOW I'll get a good shot.

(tassy took this last night)

http://static.flickr.com/29/67556456_7bb04a234f.jpg

It's a pink Fee Waybill!!! (WPOD)

ADG Webmaster

The same as in Photoshop.

And although a lightmeter can be very usefull to some, I don't think it's a MUST to have one... :2 cents:

I believe it also depends on your style.

Nice thread. Wonder if I can get an affiliate account for Alien Bees?

Nice pic! It looks like one of the lights is right behind tassy and one about 30°-45° on your right?

I used to be a member of this site... Excellent stuff for beginners (and not only beginners). Lighting setups, lots of advice and, the most important, you can contact Nigel Holmes (the guy behind the pictures & site) directly with your questions.

i've heard alot of good stuff about Profoto heads

:)

Oh yea....I have as well. I also know that they are damn expensive. Until I get that gig shooting for "Hef", I'll have to go with something a little less expensive :winkwink:

I've been thinking about Dyna-lites actually. Probably make a decision first of the year :thumbsup

I'm looking at switching from hot muthafuggin' tungsten video lights to a cool flourescent system by Kino Flo.

Anybody have experience with the Kino Flo Diva or Interview light kits? I understand lots of TV studios use Kino Flo (pricey but worth it).

ADG Webmaster

This is what I'm looking at to replace my hot lights before summer. Much cheaper then the Kino Flos. They come in either 3200° or 5600°. Gonna get the 56's so they match daylight, and my camera flash/strobes better. Screw 3200°.

http://www.flolight.com/

I'm gonna check out that site. Can't go wrong for the price. Thanks for the link!

Nice kit! I'm a speedotron person.

We have a full Kino Flo kit, and all i have to say to you is once you go Kino youll never go back :1orglaugh Seriously they are the best for lighting video and we just used them to shoot a low bidget horror film.They do get quite expensive but are worth every penny. Hit me up i have a great source for rebuilt and new kino flo equiptment and can probally save you a fortune on them (i know i did)

is this a joke?

very good stuff

I use the mole-richardson biax - good gear