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Old 03-15-2002, 04:04 PM   #1
Pipecrew
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Dvd Ripping

Just curious if anyone can give me a quick rundown on how to
say "rent a dvd somewhere" save it to my computer and burn it to a cd.... I know its doable, but is it a pain in the ass and if not , how ?
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Old 03-15-2002, 04:05 PM   #2
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isn't that illegal ?
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Old 03-15-2002, 04:06 PM   #3
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You need a DVD burner man.... dvd's have gigs of data.... cd's only have 650 megs. 400 pounds of shit in a 5 pound bag man.....
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Old 03-15-2002, 04:07 PM   #4
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I have a dvd rom, now what?
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Old 03-15-2002, 04:08 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pipecrew
I have a dvd rom, now what?
ROM = Read Only Memory.

You
need
a
dvd
burner

man.
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Old 03-15-2002, 04:08 PM   #6
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amp - you're full of shit.


get divx and rip it - a full movie fits perfectly on a standard size CD
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Old 03-15-2002, 04:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by Amputate Your Head
You need a DVD burner man.... dvd's have gigs of data.... cd's only have 650 megs. 400 pounds of shit in a 5 pound bag man.....
I know it actually can be done.. but the picturequality gets bad.

I'm 220 pounds of meat in a 120pound shell... I get around.
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Old 03-15-2002, 04:10 PM   #8
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awwww ok....... will divx stuff play in the dvd rom ?
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Old 03-15-2002, 04:10 PM   #9
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your No better than the content theifs that roam around here

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Old 03-15-2002, 04:18 PM   #10
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no, divx is saved as an mpg and saved on CD, DVD, Floppy, Zip, up-your-ass, no matter where.
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Old 03-15-2002, 04:19 PM   #11
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Equinox

Where in OH are you?
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Old 03-15-2002, 04:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by Equinox
no, divx is saved as an mpg and saved on CD, DVD, Floppy, Zip, up-your-ass, no matter where.
if you don't mind watching quality that of my childhood home 8mm flicks.
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Old 03-15-2002, 04:22 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by Forest
Equinox

Where in OH are you?
Columbus, so is Lane (he's acutally blowing me right now)
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Old 03-15-2002, 04:23 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by Amputate Your Head

if you don't mind watching quality that of my childhood home 8mm flicks.
man, the quality of the compression is pretty amazing ! full screen as good as the original
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Old 03-15-2002, 04:23 PM   #15
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Sounds good. I am just holding onto all these dvd players anyways, so i dont know much about them... I gotta find where they keep falling off these trucks
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Old 03-15-2002, 04:32 PM   #16
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http://dvd2svcd.doom9.net/
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Old 03-15-2002, 04:33 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by Equinox


man, the quality of the compression is pretty amazing ! full screen as good as the original
But will it make me jizz when watching it on my 47" HDTV widescreen CinemaVision?
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Old 03-15-2002, 04:34 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by Amputate Your Head

But will it make me jizz when watching it on my 47" HDTV widescreen CinemaVision?

if you were going to spend sick money on a TV why in the hell would you get that?
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Old 03-15-2002, 04:36 PM   #19
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Originally posted by Amputate Your Head

But will it make me jizz when watching it on my 47" HDTV widescreen CinemaVision?
if you can afford such a thing, you might as well pay for the fucking dvd
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Old 03-15-2002, 04:37 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by Equinox


if you can afford such a thing, you might as well pay for the fucking dvd
My point.
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Old 03-15-2002, 04:38 PM   #21
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Everything is better when its free
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Old 03-15-2002, 04:39 PM   #22
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Everything is better when its free
I don't know about that.... this tv is certainly better than one I could've gotten for free.
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Old 03-15-2002, 04:45 PM   #23
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I was talking in regards to dvds.... I paid sick money for my TV/system
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Old 03-15-2002, 05:00 PM   #24
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Pipecrew, I put the link to a site that does what you want. I don't copy many, just the rare OOP. Pisses me off when the company doesn't want my money.
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Old 03-15-2002, 05:11 PM   #25
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Divx Digest
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Old 03-15-2002, 05:27 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally posted by Forest
your No better than the content theifs that roam around here

I believe the same conversation went on before about music...and almost every webmaster thought it was OK to STEAL copyrighted music.

I'll say this again...And the one stealing will be the 1st on this board or another board, cry because someone is stealing there fuck pictures.

One bragged he had 60 gig's of music and didn't pay for any of it...

Another Pin Head said...but I have to pay $20.00 for a CD.....

Some of you people really do live in your own little world it's ...ok for you to Fuck people....
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Old 03-15-2002, 05:35 PM   #27
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listen to jimmy..... buy your shit.
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Old 03-15-2002, 05:41 PM   #28
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You got a lot to read :D
Part 1.

To copy a DVD you first have to convert it to a different format, because the Mpeg-2 format that is used on DVD's produces files around 4 Gig. The best format to convert a Dvd to is DivX.


BEST Method, SBC (Smart Bitrate Control) Using Nandub

The probably most talked about encoding way. Smart Bitrate Control (SBC) introduces a new way of encoding DivX: Changing between DivX low motion and DivX high motion on the fly, even at frame level, complete control about the internal codec setting parameters and 2 pass encoding for maximum quality and complete final size predictability. Of course it's not as easy as loading an IFO in Flask, selecting a profile and press Flask it, but the time is certainly well spent. Strongly suggest that you first acquire the basic ripping knowledge before daring this step, because there's quite a lot of variables which make encoding somewhat less than a piece of cake. If at some point you feel confused about what you have to do you should ask yourself: Am I better off using Fair Use? It will give you very good quality at possibly considerably less effort. But of course, if you want to get the best out of DivX this is the (hard) way to go.

Step 1): Rip the DVD (Smart Ripper) (Copies the DVD files from the Dvd to your hard disk and decodes it)

There are a few rippers around, but the best ripper by far is Smart Ripper. Smart Ripper is very simple to use and also is one of the few IFO parsing capable rippers, which means that it automatically drops not-needed information during the ripping process, which makes it ideally suited for the task.

To use smart Ripper, First Insert a DVD, wait for drive power up. Then Fire up smart ripper, a short authentication process will take place which will make sure all files are readable, . If there's any problem with unreadable files run a software player, start playing the movie, and close the player, the rerun Smart Ripper
After this you will be presented with a display similar to the one on the left of the screen.


Make sure you are in "Movie Mode". Next select a location to save the files. and check you have enough drive space.

Once ready, choose a destination directory at the bottom, and click "Stthis art". process should take about 15-40 minutes, depends on the speed of your DVD-ROM drive, the speed of your hard drive, and the number of VOB files.

Step 2): Create a DVD2AVI Project (DVD2AVI)(Saves the Dvd files as a movie project)

At first let's clarify one important issue: Even though DVD2AVI can encode a VOB file directly to an AVI this is no good idea since it lacks important facilities as aspect ration adjusting or resizing. But it's THE program when it comes to decoding an MPEG-2 stream.

Firstly you'll have to load your VOB files. If the files are consecutively named selecting the first VOB will load all the others.

The next step is finding out what kind of movie we're dealing with. Press F5 to start the preview. Let it run for a bit and watch the status window.

Here's two thing you may want to write down: The first is Aspect Ratio. Here you'll either get 16:9 or 4:3. Actually it shouldn't say Aspect Ratio but DAR since the aspect ratio of a movie is something else (1:2.35, 1:1.85 or 1:1.33 would be possible values for this value). So keep in mind: DVD2AVI's Aspect Ratio is our DAR. The other is the frame type.

Frame Rate = 25.000 fps: your source is PAL and you can skip the following step.

Frame Rate = 29.970 fps: Let the preview run for a couple of minutes, then take a look at the Video Type: If it's FILM at a percentage higher or equal to 95% you can activate Forced FILM as shown below. Otherwise you will have to perform IVTC.

Only necessary if your movie is equal or above 95% FILM

The next step concerns audio, or actually the deactivation of the audio functionality. It appears that the Graphedit/Vob2audio solution is much more reliable and less prone to synch problems. So simply select None as track number to deactivate the audio functionality of DVD2AVI.

Now you'll just have to create a DVD2AVI project file which can then be processed further.

This should take less than 10 Minuets
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Old 03-15-2002, 05:42 PM   #29
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Part 2.


Step 3): Create a pseudo AVI (Converts the Project file into a Fake AVI Movie)

Now start the VFAPI Reader Codec (VFAPIConv-EN.exe) and press Add Job, then select the source d2v/tpr/aup file.

Actually this application supports audio.. but the input project must contain an audio track and the audio will be completely written to the pseudo AVI. Choose your output filename, then press OK and after that press Convert. You'll now have a very small AVI file that you can load in any encoding program.


Before we go on you should check if the file is valid. Load the AVI file into Windows Media Player. If you can see the video (it will be slow, there's nothing to worry about if it's a slideshow rather than a movie) everything is okay and you can go on. If not, verify again that you've run proxyoff.reg. If it still doesn't help get avifile.reg from the software page and double click on it as well (again you'll be prompted if you want to add the info to your registry, answer yes to this).

NB: Your fake AVI file will be roughly 10 Mb in size. DO NOT Delete your .Vob files became the video information is still needed from these file.

Step 4): Setting up Nandub & Encoding (Encodes the Dvd to DivX Video format)

Now we're ready to start with the hard part. First of all you have to start up Nandub, then apply the resize filter, then you can add subtitles if you need them, and last but not least you encode the movie.
Note that in Nandub the things written in the bitrate and resolution guide do not apply since Nandub is so different from regular DivX encoding tools. However, if you use bad settings you can still get larger or smaller files than projected so it's important that you follow my suggestions for the various settings very carefully.

Cropping & Resizing Your Movie

At first you'll have to extract vobsub.dll to your VirtualDub/Plugins directory and rename it to vobsub.vdf.

Start up Virtualdub/Nandub if it's not already running and load your AVI (Control - o, only if you haven't done that before either). Press Control-F to bring up the filters screen.

Set the desired resolution and select Precise Bilinear filtering. Why not bicubic? When going for a real high-quality format like Huffyuv you definitely should use Precise Bicubic but in case of DivX Precise Bilinear will do just fine and even give you a slightly smaller filesize (and faster processing). Don't activate interlaced unless you have an interlaced source (PAL only, NTSC should be IVTC'd instead) and plan to use a deinterlacing filter after resizing.

Then press OK and press the Cropping button at the bottom left of the window you'll now see a window similar to the next screenshot: Then simply modify the Y1 and Y2 offsets until there's no black bars left anymore.

Once you're done press OK and close the Filter window by pressing OK again. Do NOT close VirtualDub/Nandub.

Subtitles (Optional)

At first you'll have to extract vobsub.dll to your VirtualDub/Plugins directory and rename it to vobsub.vdf.

Start up Virtualdub/Nandub if it's not already running and load your AVI (Control - o, only if you haven't done that before either). Press Control-F to bring up the filters screen.

If VobSub is not listed press Load and select vobsub.vdf in the appropriate directory.


Press OK, select the filter in the list and press configure.

Press open and specify the IFO from your movie. Then you'll be asked for a directory where it can save the index file. Don't worry, that file is less than 1MB. Then you'll be presented this screen:

Select ALL --> and pray it works. If it doesn't you have to find out which VOB IDs you still have. In order to do that you have to resort to the command line again: Get vstrip and type "vstrip stream.lst" where stream.lst is the streamlist your ripper (or you) have generated.

After indexing you'll the the following screen. Select the right subtitle track in the marked dropdown list. You can also define the colors for your subtitles and the transparency and move the subs if you don't like them at their current place.

Then press OK. After a while when it's done indexing press OK to get back to the filter selection. VobSub will have created 3 new files in the directory you indicated before (to save the index file). These files are named like your ifo file, for instance in our case vts_01_0.ifo, vts_01_0.idx and vts_01_0.sub. Keep these files for the moment. These files can be used in DirectVobSub for later playback in Windows Media Player. If you want these kind of subs (you can turn them on and off in WMP) then you can remove the VobSub filter from the filter list now. Otherwise leave the filter there and you have the subtitles directly in the video. Leave VirtualDub/Nandub open.

Encoding Your Moive!

Encoding in Nandub

SBC is a two pass process, the first pass encodes your movie at the maximum bitrate DivX allows (6000kbit/s) and analyzes the output for several parameters. Amongst these is the "quality" which is stored in bits 1-5 in each frame. This makes values between 0 and 32 possible. This value is the compression level the codec uses to compress a frame, like 2x or 3x, and it's directly related to the size of the frame (the higher the number the smaller the frame). Generally values between 2x and 32x are being used, as the decoder is unable to decode frames encoded at 1x. Fast Motion uses only values 5x and higher therefore limiting the quality you can have when using purely high motion whereas low motion goes up to 2x. But clearly, it won't use this compression settings for all the frames since this would lead to an excessive bitrate use. Other values which are being stored are size of frames and the weight of the chroma/luma components.

First Pass
You have to have Nandub properly set up before you go on, which means that you must have performed steps 5a and 5b of the guide. It's of course possible to perform the first and the second pass at different times. The only thing required for this is that you do not touch neither VOB files, nor the project files (DVD2AVI, TMPG) and AVI files (from VFAPI) that you've created. You should also write down the resizing values from step 5a to be on the safe side. The easiest way to do the 2nd pass at a later time is to save the current profile after having performed the first pass. You can save a profile by pressing Control-S on your keyboard.

During the first step it's useless to process audio so simply select Audio - No audio. Then press F8. You'll be prompted for a filename for the statistics file. Remember that name for the 2nd pass. Alternatively you can press Shift-F8 and after being prompted for a filename for the statistics file you can give the final AVI a name. Pressing Shift-F8 will do the 2 passes after each other so it's imperative that you have already configured the program properly as being shown below.

As said the first pass will encode in DivX low-motion at the maximum bitrate of 6000kbit/s. However, that file won't be saved so you don't have to worry about space just yet.

Second Pass

As it's possible that you will do the 2nd pass not right after the first pass it's imperative that you do not forget to perform steps 6a and 6b before you start the 2nd pass. And of course the 2nd pass will require the exact same filter settings as the first pass or you won't get optimal quality. If you have used additional filters for the first pass you must add them again before performing the second pass. If you've already saved a profile simply load this again (File - Load Processing Settings).

I've found that many people use some pre-made profiles without really understanding and then complaining out loud when the results do not correspond to their expectations. SBC is no "Flask-it" method so you should take your time to thoroughly read the guide and learn to understand what the various settings do. Also resort to the forum for more detailed discussions of these features. Below I'll describe the important SBC features and I give some suggestions about what values might be used. Please note that these values may not be optimal.

Another hint: There's only very few parameters which really have a big influence on the output quality: Bitrate (obviously), BR modulation (should always be on for 1 CD rips), curve compression, gauge min and max and DRFs (don't dare to touch them unless you're aiming for at least 2 CDs and you know exactly what you're doing). I've given suggested values for these parameters in conjunction with the desired output size. These values should give you a pretty good starting point for all kinds of movies. Clearly, every movie requires some optimization for optimal results but simply using these values shouldn't give totally screwed up results. All the other parameters are not really decisive for the end quality.

Press Video to bring up the video submenu.
This little submenu allows you access to all the important settings for SBC ;)

Do NEVER check Generate stats or No AVI output. Always use just F8 to make the first pass. Checking one or both of these items has lead to a whole bunch of problems for many people.

The first step is to calculate the bitrate so select BitRate Calculator.

First enter the CD size and the number of CDs. When you create a CBR audio file you can now enter the bitrate you're planning to use. If you want to create VBR audio you must create the mp3 file first, then load it into Nandub (Audio - (VBR) MP3 Audio), then check Get data from audio source. Finally press the calculate button and write down the value it gives you.

The next step is setting up all the special SBC settings so select SBC Setting. Then start setting up the DivX codec (DivX tab):

First of all you can select the codec to use. But as stated in the readme, the only advantage of MPEG4v2 is that it's legal, so I wouldn't bother with it.
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Old 03-15-2002, 05:42 PM   #30
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Part 3


The bitrate should already been set from using the calculator. Unlike in regular DivX encoding this interval has only one function: If after the number of seconds you set there (10 in our example) there has been no keyframe inserted by the scene change detection mechanism a keyframe will be inserted. If there is a keyframe inserted by the SCD (scene change detection) this counter will be reset.

Minimum allowed bitrate is the minimum bitrate the movie will ever use. Values below 300 can lead to very nasty results so be careful with these settings. The minimum allowable bitrate is applied after the bitrate curve has been calculate, scaled, smoothed, etc. In the debugger output you won't see this value but the value before this is being applied.

Internal SCD will help the program insert keyframes when the basic detection misses by analyzing a frame and making it a keyframe if it's composed of more than Internal SCD % keyblocks. Space KFs gives a minimum spacing for 2 consecutive keyframes. Higher values mean less keyframes. A value of 100 disables this feature. Note that the Internal SCD is based on motion levels. If motion exceeds this treshold (motion 300 = 100%) a frame is encoded as keyframe. This can lead to a large amout of keyframes placed very closely together if you have scenes with much motion. Hence many people actually prefer to switch this feature off by setting the value to 100% and use the alternate SCD instead (see later on).
Finally Encoding errors prevention & Quality Control: Nandub offers you 3 different modes here. None does nothing and that's what I use unless my first try gets screwed up badly (freeze frame or really badly looking frames). When you set it to Antifreeze Nandub will prevent freeze-frames (that are frames where the video suddenly freezes and audio goes on). Full finally is the regular quality control mode which has a major impact on the encoding performance. Each compressed frame will get decompressed and compared to the source one. The resulting value will be between 0 and 95dB. If the value is lower than Shit, the frame will be recompressed as keyframe and it will be tested against the original again. A suggested value for Shit is 16 and for Min quality 28-30. When the value is lower than Min. quality Nandub will try to recompress the frame as delta frame but using a lower compression level. You can speed up the process greatly by leaving Min. quality at 0 and just use the shit value. Leaving min quality at 0 also helps when you get oversized files.

The last variable is Motion modulation. The parameter indicates how strongly the anti-shit feature will be applied at a certain motion level. Let's have an example: You entered 16 as Shit and 30 as min quality. At motion level 0 you'd get 16 Shit and 30 min quality. At motion level 150 you'd get Shit = 12 and min quality = 22.5 and at motion 300 you'd get Shit = 8 and min quality = 15. As you can see, the values at motion 300 are the values you entered times motion modulation (16*0.5=8 ;). The parameters are also scaled linearly, so at 1/2 max motion you have 3/4 of the shit and min quality values you entered. Another example: Say you enter 25% modulation. At motion 0 you still get shit 16 and min quality 30. At motion 150 you get shit 14 and min quality 26.25 and at motion 300 you get 12 for shit and 22 for min quality respectively.

And for all the people who didn't get the hint here's a nice little formula (I didn't look in the sources but the values sound reasonable):

Shit = Shit - modulation*Shit*motion/300. Min quality works the same way.

During the first pass Nandub measures how much motion there is in a certain frame. The motion is being plotted on a scale from 0-300, where 0 is no motion at all and 300 the highest amount of motion. Span indicates the area which is being analyzed to find this measure. ( means from 8 frames before the current frame till 8 frames after the current frame. If you set this value too high (more than twice of the suggested value) Nandub might miss a fast peak in motion completely and furthermore it would also slow down encoding quite a bit.
Sensitivity indicated how sensitive the the motion detection is. Values between 10 and 15 are suggested here. The lower the value the higher the sensitivity.

For those who prefer a bit more info about the concept of a motion event: In a delta frame there are keyblocks and delta blocks. A motion event is a certain amount of a frame being recalculated to keyblocks (note the similar concept with anti shit re-calculating a delta frame and make it a keyframe). Sensitivity in fact means how many blocks have to be recalculated to account for a motion event. If you didn't understand this, don't worry, it's not crucial to work the program, it's just some background info for the interested.

The Fast Motion and Low Motion settings indicate when the codecs will be morphed between low and fast (high) motion. Since the only real difference between DivX Low motion and DivX high motion is different compression settings it's safe to only use Low motion by setting the fast motion slider to 300.
Crispness modulation: Crispness has an influence of an unsharp filter in the DivX codec and on the compression levels being used. When motion is equal to 0 crispness will be 100, on the other hand when motion is up to 300 the value you enter under cripsness modulation will be used. In our example crispness will be 100-30 (the value entered by you in the crispness modulation box) = 70. The 2nd effect of the cripsness setting (influencing compression levels - Enable BR modulation in the program). Noisy movies could require a higher value (for instance: Papillon = 50%)

Enable BR modulation will make influence the bitrate reservoir according to the detected motion in the first pass, and not set DRFs directly. BR modulation should be enabled for 1 CD rips in any case. For 2 CD rips you can deactivate it. If you decide to activate motion based curve modulation in the Bitrate Curve tab (this is suggested) then you MUST NOT not enable BR modulation.

Collect in gives path and name of the stats file that's being generated during encoding. Encode using gives path and name of your first pass stats file. You can use the Collect in line to generate a stats file for the 2nd pass as well for research purposed. Stats file contain data which allows the program to plot a bitrate graph. This curve is scaled to correspond to the selected bitrate.
Motion based curve modulation: This is basically a replacement for Crispness modulation in the above screen. If you enable this value (set something larger than 0%) you should deactivate the Bitrate reservoir modulation. A suggested value is 25%. It is possible that this modulation gives better results (according to the people who devised it and some who have been using it in the Maras hacks). Basically what it does is modulate the bitrate curve according to motion. Let's say you have motion 300, and modulation 30%. If your bitrate is 600 it subtracts 30% of 600 (180) off the curve resulting in a bitrate of 520. If you have motion level 150 it subtracts 30/2=15% from the bitrate so it's a linear factor.
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Old 03-15-2002, 05:43 PM   #31
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Part 4

Curve compression compressed the curve around it's average. There are 2 options now: symmetric corresponds to the old way of compressing the curve. Suggested values are 25-30% for 1 CD movies and 10-20% for 2 CD movies.

You can use the Calc... button and it'll fill in the compression value if you've set a reasonable crosspoint (I'll explain later where you set that.. please also check the readme of nandub for more info about the crosspoint).
Asymetric can be used to give less bits to the low motion scenes. Suggested values are 15% for low and 25% for high.

Luma correction corrects luma values (hence the name). During the first pass each frame is measured for "luma noise". Frames with a great deal of contrast will have a high luma noise, frames with little contrast will have a low luma noise so we have to correct or add bits to the low luma noise frames. Frames underneath the threshold get more bits. The further away they are from the threshold, the more bits they get up to threshold over 2, then they start getting less correction. If you have a threshold of 10 and 30% correction then luma noise 9 will get 6%, luma noise 8 12%, luma noise 7 18%, luma noise 6 24%, luma noise 5 30%, luma noise 4 25%, luma noise 3 18%, luma noise 2 12% and luma noise 1 6%. So as you can see it's a proportional triangle which has the gain (max) value at threshold/2 and it decreases proportionally on both sides. Furthermore frames on top of the curve lose bits depending on luma noise. After the frames have been corrected a frame with luma noise 20 loses more than a frame with luma noise 15. Suggested values are 10 for threshold and 30 for gain.

End credits start at frame is exactly what it says: Just locate the frame number where the credits start and enter this in the field and the program will automatically drop the bitrate to the Rate you set in the next field. You can safely go below 300kbit/s here, the credits don't need a lot of bits. I keep them at 150kbit/s but you can safely go lower but I'd stay above 100kbit/s to prevent eventual problems at ultra-low bitrates.

Low-pass and High-pass will set the min/max for the bitrate curve. This prevents the excessive use of bitrate on some scenes which could lead to playback problems on slower computers. High pass 270 has worked just fine for me here. When going for 1CD you might set a low-pass value of about 2500-3000 to prevent the overuse of bits in certain scenes. When you do a 2 CD rip you can safely go higher, like 5000 unless your hardware gives your playback problems at these peak bitrates. The bitrate curve is being used for some sort of "deviation control" so it can actually go lower than the allowed minimum bitrate but the latter setting will effectively still limit the minimum bitrate. Deviation control takes care of keeping the consumed bitrate under control (so you don't get oversized movies).

Bitrates redistribution can happen biased (a constant is added everywhere) or proportional (high bitrate zones get more bits).

Last but not least the smoother value: It sets how the curve is being flattened/quantized. Suggested values are in the range of 2-5%.

In the codec, the databit reservoir is defined as 5 seconds of databits (for instance, if your bitrate is 900kbit/s you have 900x5 = 4500 bits) for key and delta frames. To measure the bitrate the codec uses a gauge which is adjusted after each frame: gauge_new = gauge_old + bitsperframe - sizeofframe.
This gauge has a large influence about which compression level the codec will use. If the gauge gets to it's min point frames will get less and less bitrate and when it is very low (5% or lower) frames might be dropped since there's not enough bitrate left. The min and max values for the Gauge are there to prevent this from happening, and also stop the overuse of bits. For 1 CD encoding use something like 30 min 80 max and for 2 CDs 40 min 100 max. If the size of your movie gets out of control you have to lower these values a bit (10% steps are suggested). It's now also possible to select a start value for the gauge (in earlier versions it was always 100%).

Payback delay has an influence on the deviation control mechanism described earlier.. it described on how much time the algorithm has to base his decision. As an example 45 seconds still allow to compensate for 10 seconds of heavy action which require a lot of bitrate if the rest can use less bitrate.
Finally corrections on low-bitrate conditions: This is to prevent a side-effect of the minimum allowed bitrate. At very low bitrates the curve gets lower than minimum allowed bitrate. The codec is left at that bitrate and the deviation is updated accordingly but the gauge has the tendency to augment rapidly in these cases which can cause an overuse of bits in the next "normal" scene. If you activate this feature you should activate modulated as well.

You should leave the two "hacks" values alone, in other words leave them at 0. The KF boost adds a small boost to the gauge every time a keyframe is inserted. Freeze forces the codec to believe that the gauge is always at a certain level. This is being used in the first pass (where freeze is set to 100% so that the codec will never run out of bits).

These settings allow you to set maximum and minimum compression levels, and configure even further if you like. Normally DivX uses compression levels 2-16 but here you can change that. If you simply want to set a maximum compression level all you need is the first line and make sure that all the other lines have 300 in the "when motion over" box. Or you can configure it to use certain minimum and maximum levels when the motion setting goes beyond a certain boundary.
Here's the big news compared to the earlier guides: The only thing you have to set is the first line, set a minimum and maximum compression level. 2-8 is a suggested value for 1CD movies, for 2 CDs you can go lower than that, like 2-6 or even 2-5. If your movie is oversized in the end it's either here or in the bitrate reservoir where you have to make some changes (use less aggressive settings... that is use a higher max DRF, and lower min/max values for the gauge).

Last but not least Nandub offers (again) the ability to influence the quality of the keyframes by setting a DRF for keyframes. This works together in conjunction with the Min and Max DRF (the first line). If max DRF is lower than keyframes quality the keyframe will be encoded at Max DRF. If Max DRF is higher than keyframe quality the keyframe will be encoded at keyframe quality DRF or a higher DRF (not higher than Max DRF though). Please also refer to the readme.doc for this features, especially when you think it creates problems. 4x the the default value of the Divx codec.
It's suggested you do not use the other DRF switches anymore unless you really know what you're doing (97% of the people do not). Let me just give you a small example how things work out. Say a frame has a motion value of 200. Nandub now checks this value against the table shown in the screenshot. Since all values of "when motion over" are 300 the first line is used. Now let's assume you had set a line like this: use Min: 3x, max: 5x when motion over 195. Since your frame has motion over 195 the settings of this line would be applied. The checking always starts at the first line so when you use the DRF constraints start with low DRF levels at low motion settings and high DRF levels for much motion. Why compress more when there's a lot of motion? Because the human eye is not able to make out small details when there's a lot of motion, so we can compress these frames more without the eye noticing that the frames by themselves are pretty ugly. As a Nandub pro you might want to use these values when making a 2 CD rip. To prevent long trial&error sessions you should run Dbgview while making the 2nd pass. Then you can analyze the encoded movie and find out the motion values for ugly parts and you know which line you have to change. If you don't understand this.. don't worry.. in this case you simply shouldn't use it. You can make good rips without messing around with the DRF settings.

A word about how the codec works: First it performs motion compensation, then it creates a bitmap which has 32 additional pixels to each side, to which it then applies the crispness settings, then the frame will be encoded at 1x compression level, then it looks at the gauge and makes a decision on a compression level. Then the settings of this box come into effect, which will give you complete control over the whole encoding process. Only time will allow to find the perfect settings, if they even exist. You're encouraged to test your own settings ;) You should not limit the choice of compression levels to strongly, otherwise you'll run into problems with the final size.

Another note: The main difference between DivX Low motion and DivX Fast motion is the hardcoded compression settings. Fast Motion basically has a hardcoded DRF minimum of 7 and goes up till 16 whereas Low motion can go up till 2. Fast motion might be a bit better at motion detection but the difference is hardly notable. So in fact you can safely set the Fast Motion slider to 300 and only work with the DRF settings. Or for instance you could use DRF 7-16 for motion over 280 which achieves the same as having the motion switch (from Low Motion to Fast Motion) at 280 in the motion detection box.
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Old 03-15-2002, 05:44 PM   #32
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Lastly Part 5

FlaskMpeg note: If you used FlaskMpeg to frameserve you should also compress the audio. Do that by selecting Audio - AVI audio, then Audio - Compression which allows you to configure the audio codec.

The last step before encoding is setting up the internal VirtualDub Scene Change Detection (for VKI): Press Options - Preferences and select the Scene tab:

You can play around with these settings if you like but the default ones work fine in most cases (and after all we've set up Nandub to insert a keyframe if the internal detection fails).

Use stronger Interframe cut for very dark movies.

Or you can use Nandub's alternative setting which works even better imho. This is the alternative I mentioned in the DivX setup settings. This SCD is actually based on luma levels rather than motion. It works as follows: if curr_diff > last_diff the frame becomes a keyframe. curr_diff = absolute difference between the current and the last frame in terms of pixels in the luma space. last_diff is then set to last_diff = curr_dif * multiplier / 10, and if last_diff is below 10'000 after this it's set to 10'000.

Last but not least go to the SBC tab:


Here you can set the crosspoint which is used for the Calc... button mentioned before. If you think the calculated value for the compression is too high just lower the crosspoint.

The crosspoint value is used in the calculation (calc-button) at the curve-compression. Until now there is no final rule how this should be set, but using a crosspoint of 230-280 for 1 CD rips and 350-460 for 2 CD rips is been tested to work well. If you think the

See the Nandub documentation (readme.doc) for how the crosspoint works.

Press Save and Nandub will save your settings for good.

Once you've set it all up it's time to start the 2nd pass by pressing F7. Don't forget to verify that are your filters are still properly configured before you start! Hope you didn't get too confused with all these settings.

Even though preview is nice I'd suggest you disable Show input video and Show output video. The height of the bars you see represent the size of each frame. Blue bars are low-motion frames, green frames high motion frames (using the default - and suggested - setup you don't get any of these). Red bars are keyframes inserted by the internal SCD (which you can disable by setting it to 100%), yellow bars keyframes inserted by the alternative SCD. The white curve is the stats curve (targeted average bitrate) and the cyan curve is the motion curve. As you can see below the graph the current bitrate of the video is also being displayed. When you see the white curve go flat that means that the min bitrate limit has kicked in to limit the bitrate from dropping further.

Also, disable the previews since the preview lags behind the stats curves and you might get confused.

If you prefer to work besides encoding you can lower the processing thread priority. Setting this to idle and Nandub will only use whatever CPU time is left after all the other apps have had their share.

Last but not least Nandub has a safety feature. If you close the application all your current settings are saved in the __last__.vcd profile in the Nandub directory. This might come in handy if you accidentally close down Nandub or if you forgot to save your profile.
----------------
Read all that?
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Old 03-15-2002, 05:45 PM   #33
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Jesus Christ, Thanks Easydialer, I hope you copied and pasted that
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Old 03-15-2002, 05:52 PM   #34
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One of my friends wrote that
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Old 03-15-2002, 05:56 PM   #35
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DivX won't play in my dvd player. VCD and SVCD will.
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Old 03-15-2002, 05:59 PM   #36
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Just buy the damn movie
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Old 03-15-2002, 06:00 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally posted by TeenGodFather
Just buy the damn movie

a lot easier than reading what i posted
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Old 03-15-2002, 06:03 PM   #38
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Quote:
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a lot easier than reading what i posted
My point exactly. Although free things are allways nice, but I don't see the point really. You gotta rent the movie first, then get an empty CD (they don't cost much though) and then see all the trouble, for what? You have yet another movie in your bookshelf that you never watch again
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Old 03-15-2002, 06:03 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally posted by TeenGodFather
Just buy the damn movie
Sometimes you can't buy the movie. Studios do let movies go OOP and the secondary market may be dry at times. This is often the case for fans of cult films.
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Old 03-15-2002, 06:07 PM   #40
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You can always download divx movies from KaZaA. I have had some really nice quality ones like Boiler Room, Fast And The Furious. I have also download some shit quality ones like American Pie 2. It was a cam rip so it sucked.
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Old 03-15-2002, 06:11 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally posted by TeenGodFather


I know it actually can be done.. but the picturequality gets bad.

I'm 220 pounds of meat in a 120pound shell... I get around.
I'm 3 inches of meat in a 2 inch shell.. doesn't get me much but laughter.
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Old 03-15-2002, 06:27 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally posted by jimmyf


I believe the same conversation went on before about music...and almost every webmaster thought it was OK to STEAL copyrighted music.

I'll say this again...And the one stealing will be the 1st on this board or another board, cry because someone is stealing there fuck pictures.

One bragged he had 60 gig's of music and didn't pay for any of it...

Another Pin Head said...but I have to pay $20.00 for a CD.....

Some of you people really do live in your own little world it's ...ok for you to Fuck people....


Does anyone out there actually pay for music cds when you can just download them? How many of you, have paid for your windows or whatever Cd's.... I dont know if any of you have ever bought software for your website or just grabbed it off a friend that had it... So many ways to save money in this business because the rules are rarely enforced.......


Before a huge debate about content thiefs opens up, I dont believe in that.... but I dont care about ripping off record companies etc...
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Old 03-15-2002, 06:33 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pipecrew




Does anyone out there actually pay for music cds when you can just download them? How many of you, have paid for your windows or whatever Cd's.... I dont know if any of you have ever bought software for your website or just grabbed it off a friend that had it... So many ways to save money in this business because the rules are rarely enforced.......


Before a huge debate about content thiefs opens up, I dont believe in that.... but I dont care about ripping off record companies etc...
I paid for every CD i own.
I paid for every DVD i own.
I paid for every piece of software i own.
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Old 03-15-2002, 06:35 PM   #44
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AT the risk of being flamed severely

why?
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Old 03-15-2002, 06:40 PM   #45
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I'd rather invest my time in my business than waste my time searching for music and movies.

And it looks a lot better having 600 real CD's and DVD's on a rack in your entertainment room compared to having bundles of bootlegs.
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