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Solar energy at $1 a watt
If you've been looking for ways to live off the grid cheaply, your time may have come.
http://solveclimate.com/blog/2007121...gy-has-arrived $1 a watt FTW Let's hope this technology goes the way of CPUs--more efficient, more poweful, and cheaper as time goes by.:thumbsup |
how many watts does the average home use?
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Last power cut we had, we were running a 12v car battery with an inverter to power a lamp, the fan on the fire our satelite box and a tv. Not sure on the wattage but if you take that into account it must be low. Edit: it was a 20v deep cicle battery but still pretty amazing, lasted about 2-3 hours maybe more |
I got one of those Kill-o-watt type meters that you plug into a wall socket, then your computer (or whatever appliance) into it. You can plug in your price per kwh and such and it tells you how much power the appliance uses. Even my pretty high-end pc with 8GB of ram, 3 HDDs, etc etc only uses 325w at max load on Prime95. That's not just the computer, that's the power bar with 2 20" monitors and speakers and desk lamp plugged in, too.
The microwave and electric kettle and toaster oven were all far worse. |
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I keep all my utility stuff in a spreadsheet that goes back 5+ years. Even though I have a lot of medical equipment and use a portable heater. (we do have AC, but gas hot water, gas stove, gas heat) and our house averages about 29. I do have a small house though. Err those are kilowatt hours. |
What are the chances of this technology achieving an economy of SCALE? Maybe 10 cents per watt or less within 5 years?
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However if we do not put all of our eggs in one basket (hello T. Bone), and stick with assorted types based on geography and resources. There have been some serious advancements in solar, yet still that is not for everyone in every place. |
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http://www.affordable-solar.com/gt-estimator.htm Then check out the site and get an idea what size system your home needs. BTW this is for grid tied systems..off grid will be more expensive/longer payback due to batteries, larger system needed, etc. Also a note, there is currently a federal tax credit up to 30% for the cost of the system or more depending on the state that you live in and also what your utility supplier offers in rebates as well. It could be as much as 50% of your total system costs. state by state info here: http://www.dsireusa.org/ Don't forget that many utilities are required to buy back the excess power you generate. That can figure significantly in the return on your investment. |
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every roof should be solar panels and not shingles
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so good
I like this product |
Damn, a few counties to the west of me, the utility company will pay the entire cost of the system, then instead of paying you for the excess energy, they apply that to your equipment cost till it is paid off. My utility co are a bunch of greedy bastages, and they have no incentives at all.
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Spanish Tile style: http://www.srsenergy.com/Home.aspx traditional style: http://www.roofingnetworks.com/info/...roof-shingles/ |
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Just an FYI. Most appliances tell you how many watts power consumption they use. Here are examples
Lights - Generally 60w or 13w equivelant low energy bulb TV - CRT=75w-150w for 25" to 27" - LCD=Less - Projection=More Microwave - 600w-1200w Stereo - Recievers/Amps=100w-150w Cassette/Cd/Dvd/Vcr/Eq=25w-50w Computer - Approx 250w-450w Gaming as much as 1500w fo high end machines! Monitors - See TV Heaters - 600w(low) 900w(medium) 1500(high) PER HEATER! Fridge - 200w-300w Range - Mine is a 2009 model that takes about 700w for 8" burner and 1100w for 12" burners oven is about 1200w Water Heater - 1600w (30gallon 110v)-3500w (50gallon 220v) Mine is an economy size, does ok for family of 2 but we stretch it with 3 in the household. It is rated at 1600w but we have to wait for it to heat up several hours after it is drained. 30 gallons and taps right into my existing 110v wiring. So you can see it will add up, once you add all appliances and tv, stereo computer and a dozen lights. Of course they don't have to be on at the same time. Consider you have a home theater playing a movie while you bake a casserole and the water heater kicks on. At $1 per watt you will find you are reaching your capacity rather quickly and will spend as much as $4k-10k on even a smaller home. If you can live without watching tv or blasting your stereo while computing and cooking, then by all means setup a 2500w system. You better have kerosene or woodstoves though. |
My last power bill was almost 700.00
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That article was dated '07. But, yeah, Nanosolar is an awesome company, and they've improved their panels greatly since then. Their new facility in Germany is just incredible:
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If you want to go green it's often better to think about small changes you can make to reduce your overall energy requirements, rather than just building a bigger and more expensive system... I'm just about to buy an Intel Atom CPU based motherboard that draws less than 20W of juice, which includes a 'green' HD. Its processing power is roughly equivalent to a low end Pentium 4 and as a bonus it doesn't need a PSU, just a 12V DC input. That's the future. :thumbsup |
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In those lists people are also leaving out energy vampires. So damn many devices still pull when you have them turned off. Often the off function just means standby. Only real way to make sure your device is not pulling juice when off is to test each one or unplug them when not in use.
I know for example in our kitchen we have a power strip that has the coffee pot, electric kettle, coffee grinder, and spice grinder pluged into it. That strip gets turned off after each use. I have another strip that has the microwave, toaster oven, food processor pluged into that. It also gets turned off when done as I have no need for a clock on my microwave. The TV in the living room along with all of its componets are on a strip that is turned off too. The bedroom TV just gets powered down since we actively use the DVR, I suppose I could unplug the stero surround, as well as the actual TV but currently I am not. We also have a timer for our hot water heater. Had a tankless but unfortunatly the contractor did not follow code, had to yank it and it needs lots of extra work to make code so I am back on a regular hot water heater. However it has no reason to heat all night long. Lastly we are currently adding in some motion sensors to our lights in some rooms. I could do it now but I know our city is having an energy fair this month and they will be giving out some vouchers. |
hmmmmm
Solar needs to go to .20 a watt to be viable. Plus, that $1 figure amortizes the cost over a life expectancy that may not bear out.
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I have kept all data for about one year, and we're eating up min 300 KWh a mo (includes AC in the summer). Cooking and stuff are on gas though. Winter, that's another story... using up to 1100 KWh a mo due to heating. |
My post was based on power consumption, not usage. You have to think realistically about how much load you will need to handle at peak times. If you want to go completely off the grid, you will need to pay out some $$$$$$. However, if you have alternative source of heat and cooking, it could be reasonable.
My water heater uses little energy compared to others, it runs more often, but it runs on less power. In a solar environment it wouldn't matter as much. I use a wood fireplace and electric heaters. I hate the smell of kerosene. I want to get a pellet stove or an outdoor boiler system. Cooking with electric skillets and crockpots is ok, we lived half a year on them while we waited for the snow to clear and have our appliances delivered. We live on a mountain basically. You can't bake though, but a toaster oven will get you hot subs and pizza. All these appliances use a heating element that in the electric world, costs money to run. They are high wattage units. Coffee pots, toasters, toaster ovens, heaters, skillets, crock pots, griddles, or even the old fashioned electric heating plates. This will cost you. Then again this is a GREAT deal for someone who wants to do the opposite of me. I decided to not do business with Gas companies, just electric for now. Cause I want to get an alternate electrical system and get off the grid completely. If you choose to get off electric and still recieve gas service, then by all means setup a 2500-3000 watt system. Only thing that sucks for me now is that I live JUST within the city limits. Was thinking about a spring/well and septic system to get off the city water systems. Of course the city will tell me no, or just let me do it and collect a bill anyway. If shit goes down I want my ducks in a row. Fuck chemical warfare! Wait... what is a computer without the internet? I will need to look into some 3G-4G plans. |
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Also... at least in New Jersey it is about 6.50 a watt to have installed. Just some information... if your house used 800 KWh per month average, located in NJ with about 4 hours usable sunlight, you would be looking at about an 8 KW system with approximately 45 180W panels. The cost would be around $52,000. With incentives and proper pricing structure you can see you money back within the 2nd year. Anybody who is serious about solar options feel free to hit me up... I am very interested in people who have set up sites for alternative energy solutions and I think we could help each other out. |
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