Where you learn about SEO?

a bit of both, but seo is also about educated guesses and experimentation.. i got it wrong a lot before i started getting it right!

Theres a couple good forums out there.... no link posting on GFY though

Those reading SEO materials and taking formal courses.

All of these can be found on www.meanseo.com

Of course plenty of experimentation.

Learning about it is very time consuming, tutorials, forums are good places but also take notice about what the major search engines are saying about how you can improve your serp positions and so on.

It took me several 100's of hours to educate myself on this, today I still check boards a few times a week just to stay up to date. It's a never ending learning process. I was also lucky enough to get in contact with somebody who has a seo firm and helped me out with her insight on things.

Also don't think you can master google (yahoo and live you can). Google changes way to often. To do decent seo you will also need a budget to buy links. This last bit only applies to the adult industry.

Stay away from black hat techniques, they might look easy to achieve great rankings but you will get caught, if not by the engines your competitors will catch you.