.pvd files
 

Somebody gave me this fucking .pvd file and asked that I try to convert it to something else. They claim it's pictures from a digital camera.

What opens this? And what can I use to convert it

Thanks in advance

bump. somebody here is in the know I know

I can't find shit using google

Don't know if it'll help, but try here...

http://filext.com/detaillist.php?ext...vd&goButton=Go

I looked at that earlier and didn't help me none.

Thanks anyways

DPS Perception Clip (* hardware required)

use Digital Fusion 4 and DFX+ 4 to open it

http://dv411.com/fusion.html

Isn't there a easier way then paying $5000 to open a file? :1orglaugh

seriously though, I give up on this fucking file. I'm just going to tell them to get a new camera

Converting PAR ANI files to PVR PVD files.
Solution: This document describes how to convert ANI files on your PAR system into PVD files that can be used on the Perception board,
under Windows 3.1. It assumes that both boards are installed in the same computer, that you have PAR software v1.64 installed, and that
the PAR Driver (PARDRV.EXE - NTSC or PARDRVP.EXE - PAL) has been run. In the examples the PAR software is assumed to be
stored in C:\DPS_PAR, and the PAR drive is assumed to be drive D:.

The basic principle is to make your PAR ANI file appear as a series of Targa images, and to then import these images into a new animation
on your Perception. However, there are a couple of things to watch for. The first is the fact that PAR images are 752x480 (752x576 PAL) whereas
Perception images are 720x480 (720x576 PAL), so frames must be either resized or cropped. The second thing to watch for are the various
import preferences such as Field Order and Super Black.

Instructions:
Let's assume you have a file on your PAR drive called TEST.ANI that you wish to copy over onto your Perception. The first step is to rename the file
so that it ends in a four digit number. This can be done either through PAR.EXE, or through DOS or the Windows File Manager. We'll rename
the file to TEST0000.ANI.

The next step is to configure the PAR driver. This is most easily done from DOS, although you will have to first exit Windows if it is currently running. Type:

C:\DPS_PAR\PARDRV /e:f /i:file /o:0 /t for NTSC machines
or C:\DPS_PAR\PARDRVP /e:f /i:file /o:0 /t for PAL machines

Now start Windows and run the Perception Player/Recorder. From the Settings menu, choose Record Settings and select an appropriate Custom Setting
such as "Industrial". (It is pointless to choose a setting much higher than this because of the lower quality of PAR images.) Click OK.

Go back to the Settings menu and choose Import/Export Settings. Make sure that "Import Fld Order- 1:2" is selected and "Draft Mode" is unselected.
If you are running under NTSC, you must also make sure that "Super Black" is unselected.

Now you must make a decision about how the animation is converted from 752 pixels across down to 720. If you wish to maintain a one-to-one pixel
correlation, but you are willing to lose 16 pixels on either side of your image and to have it stretched horizontally a bit, make sure "Horizontal Auto Size"
is unselected. On the other hand, if you want to keep the entire image along with the same aspect ratio, make sure "Horizontal Auto Size" is selected.
(Furthermore, if you are converting from a PAL animation to NTSC or from an NTSC animation to PAL, select "Vertical Auto Size". Otherwise, leave it unselected.)
Click OK.

Finally, go to the File menu and choose Open. Find TEST0000.TGA on your D: drive and open it as "automatic" or as "image sequence". This will automatically
load in all frames of the PAR animation, and build a new PVD file on your Perception hard drive. And voila! You have now converted your animation over to the Perception.
(Note: Due to the way the PAR Driver works, Perception will try to open one frame past the last frame of the animation. This will pop up an error message saying that
the load bitmap failed, but your animation will have been successfully converted.)

Incidentally, if you also wish to transfer stills (STL files), the instructions are almost the same except:

I just can't understand why pictures from a digital camera would involve all of that mess.

I'm not going to waste anymore time on this. Thanks anyway