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anyone know anything about cars?
my car today just stoped starting. it turns over just does not start. any hints?
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start with looking at your coil....then your cap and rotor....
20-30 dollar replacement..... |
it depends on the car. May not be getting fuel. If there is a carborator and the air filter is totally fucked then that. fuel filter fucked. alot of possibilities. What type of car?
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its a ford mustang
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:1orglaugh |
timing belt or fuel pump
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but seriously with a mustang it could be a variety of issues. (What evil said above) You should have a mechanic look at it.
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usually bad starter or just ignition switch
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how do you check to see if there is a spark?
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On Road Dead |
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You probably need a new starter.
Better take it to a Ford Dealer though, too many possiblities Ivy EDIT: Didn't read that it is rolling over...lol....take it and have it looked at. GFY probably can't fix it :-))) Ivy |
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take the wire off the top of the rotor....peel back the rubber hold it close to your engine block....have some one turn the key...you willl see a little spark between that and the engine block...that i will tell you if every thing is ok up will that point...that will rule out the ignition stuff...
you could also use a multi meter if its scary :) |
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Its probably your fuel pump.
there should be a reset button for the fuel pump in or around the trunk area... |
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ENGINE FAULT-TRACING
Serious mechanical trouble is comparatively rare, but minor troubles do unexpectedly crop up, although regular maintenance will go a long way towards preventing them. The accompanying fault-tracing chart illus- trates the systematic procedure which should be followed in diagnosis. Haphazard tests and tinkering are seldom very effective. A good axiom to remember is that an engine which is in sound mechanical order cannot fail to start or run efficiently provided that ? * The fuel system is supplying a correct mixture in adequate quantity, * The mixture is properly compressed in the cylinders, * The ignition system is providing good sparks at the correct intervals, * The cooling system is maintaining the engine at the right working temperature, and * Adequate lubrication is preventing friction and heat. By eliminating one or more of the above by tests, the field of inquiry can be gradually narrowed down by reference to the more detailed information in this and other chapters. Fault Finding Chart Starter Motor Fails to crank engine: Battery discharged Lead disconnected or corroded Faulty starter switch Drive dirty Drive spring broken Faulty starter motor Cranks engine slowly Battery partly discharged Terminal loose Connexions dirty Wrong grade of oil Faulty starter motor Engine Will Not Fire IGNITION FUEL SYSTEM Check Sparking Plugs No spark at plug gap: Sparking plugs oiled up Sparking plug porcelain cracked No petrol in carburettor Air leak in petrol line Blockage in carburettor pipe line Faulty petrol pump Petrol tank empty Check Distributor No spark at plug leads: Cracked rotor Loose low-tension leads Faulty cap Dirty or worn distributor points Faulty condenser or connexions Carbon brush not making contact Petrol in carburettor Mixture control faulty Carburettor piston sticking Air leak in induction manifold Water in petrol Dirt in carburettor Check Coil No spark at coil lead: Coil burnt out High-tension lead loose or broken Faulty switch Points not opening or closing Sparking Plug Test Unscrew the plug, reconnect the lead and lay the plug on the cylinder block. Watch for a spark whilst the engine is turned over by hand Check Battery No lamps light or are weak Battery run down Low-tension lead loose or broken Symptom Probable Cause IGNITION FUEL SYSTEM MECHANICAL Engine misfires High tension leads to sparking plugs shorting. Incorrect spacing of sparking plug points. Cracked sparking plug porcelain. Battery connections loose. Faulty or damp distributor cap. Water in carburettor. Petrol line partly choked. Fuel pump pressure low. Fuel pump filter chocked. Needle valve faulty or dirty. Carburettor piston sticking. Carburettor piston damper requires oil. Valves sticking. Valves burnt or broken. Valve spring broken. Incorrect valce clearance. Engine starts and stops Low-tension connection loose. Faulty switch contact. Dirty contact points. Petrol line blocked. Water in petrol. Needle valve sticking. Fuel pump faulty. Carburettor pistons sticking. Air leaks. Engine runs on wide throttle only Carburettor piston sticking. Slow-running adjusting screw incorrectly adjusted. Valve sticking. Valve burnt or broken. Valve spring broken. Engine does not give full power Ignition retarded. High-tension lead shorting. Faulty distributor cap. Petrol supply faulty. Air leaks in induction pipe. Jet partly blocked. Carburettor piston sticking. Valve burnt or badly seated. Incorrect valve clearance. Engine runs imperfectly Timing incorrect. Carburettor flooding. Weak mixture. Petrol feed faulty. Inlet valve not closing. Engine knocks Timing too far advanced. Excessive carbon deposits. Loose bearings or pistons. |
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they go brum brum, o and dont crash them
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ok here is the basics of the car (very basic)
you need fuel to get into the engine, you need spark to spark it. your problem is either ecu, spark or fuel or a combination of all of them. If the check engine light is on or blinking you can pretty much rule out anything such as the fuel pump or fuel filter, these are not regulated like that so if no blinky light for check engine then this is probably not your thing. Take each spark plug out of their holes in the engine, this is done with a socket, take them one by one and place them with the plug wire attached to them and lay them across the metal of the valve cover, DO NOT HAVE ANYONE TOUCHING ANYTHING METAL UNDER THE HOOD. Get in the car and try to crank, you should see a spark hop across the gap of the plug. If you got spark on each one then there is nothing wrong with the ignitor/coil/coil packs/rotor/timing belt. If you get no spark from any then you have an issue with the above parts. I have only worked on building older mustands and camarro/corvettes or the new ones for race only but all cars from obd0 (pre obd) with FI have a diagnostics port where you place in a metal jumper (paperclip unbent will work) you need to find a basic haynes or chilton for the book and find out where it is and which jumper to connect. The key to the acc location will allow you to "pull" a basic code. The check engine light will blink slow a few times or once. This is your first number Then it will blingk fast this is your second number. So it may flash 2 slow then 6 fast this is 26, you go in the manual and it will tell you what 26 means - o2 sensor failure etc etc. It all depends on the obd (on board diagnostics) level of your vehicle, this could be as simple as a map/mas sensor malfunction or a fuel pump death to something a little more like dead coil. You can hit me up on icq if you need more help. If you are in the Baton Rouge area I can schedule you in at my shop and discount you for being a web master, let me know how you make out oh yeah, on fords look for the fuel pump reset in the trunk area, we get a lot of focuses in with this problem. |
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Your gas tank is empty :helpme
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It's not your starter or it wouldn't be cranking.
It's either you are out of Gas, it can happen. Make sure you double check that. It can be a fuel pump. Make sure you ingition wire is on the coil. What year is the car? If its newer model it can be a computer problem. |
yes i know where the distrubutor cap is
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ok so I need to check to see if there is a spark, and if there is gas getting there. one guy said how to check for a spark by placing the spark plug on the top of the engine and crank.
but how do you check to see if fuel is getting there? |
unclamp a fuel line (BEFORE the carby or efi)
wind it over and see if its pushing fuel threw the lines MAKE SURE THE DIZZY CAP IS BACK ON THO AND THERES NO SPARKS ANYWHERE NEAR FUEL OR FUMES |
What year Ford is it?
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your sposed to put petrol in them I think
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i think he called a tow truck :(
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