Iraqi tourist quest.
 

This is my favorite part:

"There are no commercial carriers serving Baghdad, just Royal Jordanian flights from Amman that are usually reserved for journalists, aid workers and civilian contractors.

Those flights are not for the squeamish - pilots make a spiral descent to evade surface-to-air missiles. As for roads into Iraq, they are the domain of kidnappers and bandits."

http://www.cnn.com/2004/TRAVEL/08/09...eut/index.html