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#1 |
58008 53773
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Australia
Posts: 9,864
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![]() Have a couple of questions re settings for taking pics
Today I was taking images of some racing (cars) and it was extremely cloudy and the pics came out like shit for the most part. I will post a couple of the images in a minute. I'm using a Canon 30D with 70-300 IS lens and i'm a complete novice. Could anyone give me a couple of tips as to what basic settings to use for a cloudy day, subject is ~100 metres away and moving at ~100k's. Any help would be much appreciated. ![]()
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#2 |
So Fucking Banned
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: I convert perverts like catholic church!
Posts: 5,133
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fast shutter
low ISO f8 |
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#3 |
58008 53773
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Australia
Posts: 9,864
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Pics
they are all super dark - it was soooo dark today from the storm it almost looked like dusk ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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TripleXPrint on Megan Fox "I would STILL suck her pussy until her face caved in. And then blow her up and do it again!" |
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#4 | |
58008 53773
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Australia
Posts: 9,864
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Quote:
and umm ISO 400 from memory...i'llhave to check the cam
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TripleXPrint on Megan Fox "I would STILL suck her pussy until her face caved in. And then blow her up and do it again!" |
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#5 | |
So Fucking Banned
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: I convert perverts like catholic church!
Posts: 5,133
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Quote:
im far from a pro but i been around |
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#6 |
58008 53773
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Australia
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thanks - i'll keep that in mind next time i'm out and about
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TripleXPrint on Megan Fox "I would STILL suck her pussy until her face caved in. And then blow her up and do it again!" |
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#7 |
Confirmed User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,052
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Here you go....
Kodak Tip for photographing race cars.... http://www.kodak.com/US/en/consumer/...0.1.4.13&lc=en
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Http://www.extremehole.com **** CLOSED **** 400 HOURS of exclusive custom extreme content, already on external HD in Raw DV ready to encode. over 150,000 exclusive images and more. |
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#8 |
Confirmed User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 4,402
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All the photos are underexposed. You should e able to make them a lot better in PS.
Do a goggle on "camera EV" and read that section in your manual. Have fun!
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#9 |
Too lazy to set a custom title
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 10,127
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PS will do wonders
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#10 |
Too lazy to set a custom title
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Posts: 62,911
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Those photos actually look pretty good for the settings. I have the 20D, and I am still pikcing up the manual to learn things. Just google the things you want to learn about, and you can find it.
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#11 |
<&(©¿©)&>
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Chicago
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the pics are not bad, just probably need to tweak them a little in photoshop... maybe also try shooting at lower f-stop so the background comes out blurred and cars stand out more...
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#12 | |
I Like Depth Of Field!
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Join Date: Jan 2003
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Posts: 14,861
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Quote:
At the time, shooting film, FUJI had come out with an 800 ISO film, and that worked wonders! The car shots below were shot under those conditions. The pic of me was from a different year there, but I wanted to show you where I shot them from - it is highly unusual, and NASCAR had made "special consideration" for me to do so, even cutting out part of the catch fence for me to shoot through. :-) Fitz ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#13 |
Confirmed User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,191
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adjust your exposure index to give half a stop more.
shoot raw if possible so you can batch adjust WB. generally cloudy conditions will make pix look too blue, make sure you have a haze filter on lens and probably you will need to tweak these images to something like 5300-5400K to give more warmth. |
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#14 |
Confirmed User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: middle America
Posts: 1,154
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You didn't tell us what lens you are using, as far as f-stop goes. The best thing you can do for shooting fast moving objects is to get a fast lens. What you need is a 300mm f2.0 or 400mm f2.0 lens. I don't remember who said to shoot at f8, but that is just wrong for something like sports shooting, especially something moving as fast as a race car.
Going from f8 to f2 is more than three stops faster with regard to light, so the images would be much brighter. If you didn't need that much you should still go full open because shooting something moving this fast requires as fast a shutter speed possible. Not just for the movement of the car, but the movement introduced into a 300mm lens. Shooting in raw can help a little, but don't use that as an excuse to not learn how to shoot. Go down to a camera shop and buy yourself a good light meter that has a spot meter. I use a sekonic 558R. A good light meter is indespensible in photography. chimping to the LCD is not a substitute for a good meter. |
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#15 |
Too lazy to set a custom title
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: pink adult dreams
Posts: 13,557
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my expert photographer said that your photos are alright. And you can do nothing else.
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#16 |
Confirmed User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,374
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I used my Canon 20D with the 70-200 mm F 2.8 to shoot the Rolex, IROC and Pepsi 400 at Daytona a few weeks ago. I shot during the day in sunny and cloudy conditions. I shot during sunset and I shot late into the night using the track's lights. The whole time I used only two settings. I put it on sport mode during the day and aperture priority ( 2.8 ) ISO 1600 at night. With a little post production tweaking in PS the pictures came out really well.
Of course none of this means anything unless I back it up with some samples so I guess I better get working on a higher post count to post some pics |
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#17 |
lurker
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: atlanta
Posts: 57,021
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the best book on your camera :
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/157...e=UTF8&s=books |
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#18 |
www.AdultCopywriters.com
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Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 31,618
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I'm no expert, but those pics look pretty darn good.
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