i taped a concert the other night and the footage turned out decent but the place was too dark, do i need to buy one of those attachable lights for it and if so wheres the best place to get one?
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This might be a good place to start looking for a light.
http://www.canondv.com/archive/gl1/index.html
VL-10Li Battery Video Light
The VL-10Li is a 10-watt video light for both indoor and outdoor use. It accepts a Lithium-Ion battery pack for power and is attached to the camera's accessory shoe.
farbieFrisbeetarianism (n.), The belief that, when you die, your soul goes up on the roof and gets stuck there. -
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They also have a VL-20LiOriginally posted by farbie
This might be a good place to start looking for a light.
http://www.canondv.com/archive/gl1/index.html
VL-10Li Battery Video Light
The VL-10Li is a 10-watt video light for both indoor and outdoor use. It accepts a Lithium-Ion battery pack for power and is attached to the camera's accessory shoe.
farbie
You can step down the 20 watts to 10 if needed. You still may have to defuse the light so you do not get hot spots if you are shooting up close.JesusEmpire - The Most Trusted Mobile Marketing Service
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Also, practice with your manual exposure settings. This alone might be enough.Comment
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First of all, sorry to hear of someone else trying to use a GL1 for something it wasn't intended. Canon camcorders just aren't made for low light situations. The Sony TRV-950, VX-2000 and PD-150 all outperform the GL1 in this regard, both in faster lenses (so AGC kicks in at a higher [edit: NOT lower!] LUX) and a better Auto Gain Control itself (where there's less noise in the picture when it does kick in).
However, I guess you're in a position where you're not able to return the GL1 and a lighting accessory is going to be a must. Here's some considerations on choosing a good auxillary light for your camcorder:- *Tempurature of the light.
Halogen bulbs are recommended since they provide balanced, full spectrum lighting that approximates sunlight. Avoid tungsten lamps! In fact, if someone insists on shining a regular flashlight on a subject while you're taping, have someone distract them long enough to break it. I mean it, the reddish-yellow spot will ruin your footage.
*Hot spots in the beam, this can be a killer!
Avoid 6v systems, the halogen bulbs made for them are for the bicycle headlight market and even coverage isn't that big of an issue. The only way to go is with a 12v system, whose bulbs are primarily made for display cases. And please note, diffusion screens are NOT an answer to hot spots. They're used for a softer lighting effect, at the cost of requiring a higher wattage bulb (read hotter unit and less run time).
*Coverage of the beam, known as beam spread.
The wider the shot, the wider you want your light coverage to avoid "dark cropping" of the image, which can throw off automatic exposure. Tight zooms require narrow beam coverage so you're not wasting juice trying to light up areas outside the frame. Halogen bulbs come with or without a reflector. If it has a mirrored reflector (the MR series), you're limited to the beam spread set for the unit. Bare bulbs can offer variable coverage by moving the bulb backward and forward in front of the reflecting surface.
*The amount of light placed on the subject.
This really determines the effectiveness of the unit, too much and you'll wash out color and too little will still have AGC kicking in. It is determined by both the wattage of the bulb and its beam spread. Generally, one uses a lower wattage and wider lighting close in and the opposite for close-ups at a distance. Wide angled shots of distant scenes are difficult with handheld light units, bouncing a high watt beam off a reflective surface usually will give best results for that.
*Mounting.
A light placed on the shoe on top of the camera, especially if it has a battery attached to it, will throw off the handling of the camera considerably. Side bracket mounting is preferable. Being able to tilt the unit up or to the side is not only a plus, it's the only way to get bounce lighting when needed.
*Battery power for the light unit.
Keep in mind that lighting is one of the most inefficient uses of electricity, to get good light for any length of time, you're going to burn some juice. Eight pounds of SLA or 6 of Ni-Cad will give you about an hour's of good light, pushing it past that point results in an unacceptable color drop off. A cord to a battery belt/vest is much prefered over having the battery pack attached to the light.
Anyway, with all those considerations, check out a <A HREF="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/product/66924/NR56004/REG/2025" target="_blank">Varalux Pro</A>Last edited by fiveyes; 01-21-2003, 11:12 AM.<CENTER><A HREF="http://www.hot-off-bourbon.com/" target="_blank"><IMG SRC="http://www.hot-off-bourbon.com/images/hob-logosmall.jpg" border="0"></A>
<FONT face="Comic Sans MS" SIZE="-1"><I>Mardi Gras, Spring Break, Wet-T, Night Club Action, UpSkirt, Oil Wrestling, Voyeur</I></FONT></CENTER>Comment
- *Tempurature of the light.
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Shouldn't you be calling Canon?Comment
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I'm looking for an on camera light right now too. I have the 10w 20w switchable light from sony right now but I want to upgrade. I'm liking the Cool-lux SL3000. Can be used as a soft light or a broad light. $600 bucks with the battery belt.
http://www.cool-lux.com/docs/SL3000_combo_packs.htmlComment
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they will only recommend their products.Originally posted by cosis
Shouldn't you be calling Canon?I host with VacaresComment
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wow thats a lot of info, thanks fiveeyes. what exacly does shoe mount mean?I host with VacaresComment
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