im looking @ purchasing this car and noticed this rust on the turbo.. is it a sign of something bad or is it normal?
its a power enterprises twin turbo kit
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im looking @ purchasing this car and noticed this rust on the turbo.. is it a sign of something bad or is it normal?
its a power enterprises twin turbo kit -
whatever
lol i figured i'd guess that wrong. but ya, now that you mention it that makes sense.
either way tho, normal? or problematic?Comment
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I don't think it's rust, that looks like alumunium. Prob dirt. Run some cleaner on it and then check it out.
I'd be more worried if they have a turbo timer myself.
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If you'd ask me . . . there is no problem. It should work at least 10 years without problems
Bogat mama ala cu loturi de traficComment
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looks fine, shouldn't be a problemComment
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Yeah thats the blow off valve. There is no problem there. I had the same thing happen on my old car and it never gave me any trouble. the rust your talking about is also on the intake pipe.. Its not expensive at all to replace that peice.Last edited by Tylo; 09-10-2007, 07:59 AM.-ICQ# 119419008
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its a 2003 Nissan 350Z Enthusiast, 49k miles on it
Here is a mod list:
Power Enterprises Twin Turbo kit including:
PE oil pan with +1 quart oil capacity
IHI turbos
ARC intercooler
HKS SSQV BOV
Tuned SS box (tuned by VRT)
JWT Turbo heatshield
Boost-related fuel pressure regulator
380cc injectors
Walbro 255 fuel pump
New Fuel lines
Other performance mods:
Stillen test pipes (stock cats included as well but not installed)
B&M short shifter
JWT Flywheel
JWT clutch
Exterior mods:
Seibon TS carbon fiber hood with turbo vents
Nismo spoiler paint matched
Z33 Badging
Carbon Fiber B pillars
Carbon fiber emblem insert
ADR M-sports (8.5front,9.5rear)
Toyo TS-1 tires
Nismo brake pads
Audio upgrades:
Brand new Pioneer head unit with Ipod adapter
Phoenix gold speakers Front
Infinity Speakers rear
Image Dynamics IDMAX 10" subwoofer in Zenclosures box @ 1000watts RMS
JL Audio e1800d 1000 watt RMS mono block amplifier
Gauges:
Stillen 2 gauge pod
AEM UEGO AFR Gauge
Dynotune boost gaugeComment
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another engine shot
and the beauty itself
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ya... no turbo timer
"Currently the car should be approximately at around 400 flywheel horsepower or around 350rwhp.
If you add a boost controller+tune and dyno you should easily be at 400hp/400tq to the wheels. Quoted about $800 for this from VRT in San Diego.
I had the front brake rotors and pads completely replaced. I had all the suspension bushings replaced, the front struts replaced, and the front control arms replaced."Comment
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Make him kick a buck50 off the price for the rust.PornGuy skype me pornguy_epic
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ya... no turbo timer
"Currently the car should be approximately at around 400 flywheel horsepower or around 350rwhp.
If you add a boost controller+tune and dyno you should easily be at 400hp/400tq to the wheels. Quoted about $800 for this from VRT in San Diego.
I had the front brake rotors and pads completely replaced. I had all the suspension bushings replaced, the front struts replaced, and the front control arms replaced."
turbo timers aren't super important.
for example. what kind of oil does he use in there? if it's a full synthetic, it won't coke up in the lines.
what kind of turbo kit is it? is it just oil cooled, or is it water cooled as well. if it is water cooled as well, once again, no real need for a turbo timer.
how did he drive it? was he out doing full throttle pulls for about 20 mins, then just slamming it into a parking space and shutting it off? as long as the car has a mile or two of off boost driving before being shut down, it will be ok.
i wouldn't worry too much about the rust on the blow off valve. what i would worry about, is who put that turbo kit together, and who tuned it. i personally wouldn't be comfortable buying a car someone else modded.
you never know how well the work was done, how it was driven after the work, or what kind of tuning has been done to the engine. it could feel strong driving it around but be kicking back some very high knock counts. if i were you, i would start with a stock 350z, and build it yourself. it will be more gratifying that way.
out of curiosity, why is he selling it, and how much is he asking?Cry havoc and let slip the dogs of war.Comment
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he said all work parts were installed by "VRT in San Diego". I am not from around there, so i dont know if thats a good place or not..anyone else?
selling for $23k because he bought a bmw 335i
obviously buying any used car, much less a modded one, is always a gamble. but at the same time, im going to drive the shit out of it as well lol
even if i buy a used stock one, chances are its been pushed a bit. i know my last one, i drove like a bat out of hell in.
i just dont want to pay the price to mod it myself, that stuff is insane expensive esp on a ZComment
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check into the shop. i bet you can find some information on them on some 350z forums. make sure they have a good reputation.
obviously get it checked out by a good mechanic, if possible, one who has experience with heavily modified cars.
and if you can, see if you can do a little data logging on it. i would be interested what kind of knocksum's it is generating at WOT, and what the A/F ratios look like.
check the plugs, make sure they look kosher. you don't want any white or orange residue, or alot of black, of any gunk on them. make sure the electrode's aren't bent (i.e a collision with the piston surface) etc...
and see if you can get a boost leak test done.
also, i wouldn't go for it for 23k. edmunds is listing the certified resale price at 21k. and that is in clean condition with all the factory options. now, now matter what he tells you, those performance parts do nothing but subtract from the resale value. while it is true that he can probably find some person to tax out the ass on the car because it's got "goodies", don't let that person be you.Cry havoc and let slip the dogs of war.Comment
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That part (intake) and the blow off valve together would cost you about $500 to replace if needed.
Doesn't look like it has rusted through and as Anthony said you can probably clean itICQ 115433750Comment
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well. i agree.. but only to an extent.
any turbo'd/wheels/system/etc z is going to sell for a few grand more than a stock one... but its still a ton cheaper than buying all those parts myself... right?
maybe he would take 21.. i guess it wouldnt hurt to ask. I want the power, but living in Dallas there isnt a ton of places that could do these things, esp not for that price.. plus i'd probably never finish it..
thanks for the helpComment
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Damn, that car looks hot!!
I'm just a newbie.Comment
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at thinking a blowoff valve is a turbocharger when buying a car with an aftermarket twin turbo kit installed...
But yes it's just the mounting flange that's rusted and it's just surface, you can clean that up with steel wool, or if you're really concerned order a new flange from HKS for $35 and have someone reweld it for another $15.
I was also going to go on about the turbo timer issue but smack knows his shit
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I disagree with the turbo timer. I've known many a car owner who didn't take care of their shit and always brought in their car when they burn out a turbo. But that's just me. Did we already forget there are owners who don't know a turbo from a blow off valve in this world? No disrepect to the original poster.
I do agree with you about not buying a car someone else modded up. Build your own car, nothing better.
Thankfully, I have this out of my system now as I get closer to 40.Last edited by Anthony; 09-10-2007, 09:33 AM.
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depends on how well it was installed and maintained to begin with. generaly speaking doing this kind of work to a car only hurts reliability and resale. because let's say, for example you get this car, then two months from now you realize the turbo has alot of play in the compressor shaft. well, you're gonna need to rebuild it. not neccesarily cheap or easy to do.
there is alot of maintance and care that go into driving and maintaining a modified engine. i'm not trying to neccesarily deter you from getting a car you love, just giving you some things to think about before making a major purchase.
would it be more exspensive to get a stock 350z, and modify it to this level? sure would. however, then you would know how all the work was done, and how she was cared for. plus you would have the added satisfaction of building it yourself, in your own image.
one other thing i want to throw out there, you said in your list that the clutch and flywheel had been replaced. make sure you give it a good drive before you pick it up. you want to make sure that the clutch is something you don't mind dealing with on a day to day basis (this is going to be a daily driver right?). i replaced the clutch in my first evo with an exedy single plate organic and prostreet 10.5lb flywheel. pedal pressure was a bit rough for dealing with traffic if you have to commute. luckily i don't, so it wasn't really an issue. but i did goto a concert with it once, and after waiting in traffic for about an hour, i thought my left leg was going to fall off.
if you get it though, enjoy it. you will be addicted to boost within the first 20 minutes garunteed. i always like to tell people my boost gauge is my "fun meter", and when it hits around 1.6 bar, the good times begin.
haha, thanks fuze. how you been?
and now after all this talking, here are some bonus pics of me making sweet, sweet love to my evo.
you can't really see it in the pic, but i'm sporting my GFY shirt ;)Last edited by smack; 09-10-2007, 09:34 AM.Cry havoc and let slip the dogs of war.Comment
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Sweet ride!depends on how well it was installed and maintained to begin with. generaly speaking doing this kind of work to a car only hurts reliability and resale. because let's say, for example you get this car, then two months from now you realize the turbo has alot of play in the compressor shaft. well, you're gonna need to rebuild it. not neccesarily cheap or easy to do.
there is alot of maintance and care that go into driving and maintaining a modified engine. i'm not trying to neccesarily deter you from getting a car you love, just giving you some things to think about before making a major purchase.
would it be more exspensive to get a stock 350z, and modify it to this level? sure would. however, then you would know how all the work was done, and how she was cared for. plus you would have the added satisfaction of building it yourself, in your own image.
one other thing i want to throw out there, you said in your list that the clutch and flywheel had been replaced. make sure you give it a good drive before you pick it up. you want to make sure that the clutch is something you don't mind dealing with on a day to day basis (this is going to be a daily driver right?). i replaced the clutch in my first evo with an exedy single plate organic and prostreet 10.5lb flywheel. pedal pressure was a bit rough for dealing with traffic if you have to commute. luckily i don't, so it wasn't really an issue. but i did goto a concert with it once, and after waiting in traffic for about an hour, i thought my left leg was going to fall off.
if you get it though, enjoy it. you will be addicted to boost within the first 20 minutes garunteed. i always like to tell people my boost gauge is my "fun meter", and when it hits around 1.6 bar, the good times begin.
haha, thanks fuze. how you been?
and now after all this talking, here are some bonus pics of me making sweet, sweet love to my evo.
you can't really see it in the pic, but i'm sporting my GFY shirt ;)
I wish I could fit in those cars comfortably. Hell the last time I got in a 350z I had to sit sideways because my back overlapped and wouldn't fit in the seats.
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what kind of car/oil? i haven't heard of it happening with any evos, using full synth oil and a water & oil cooled turbo. i know it can happen pretty easily with convetional oil though.
i hope i never get this out of my system. i love working on my car, and i especially love racing it.Cry havoc and let slip the dogs of war.Comment
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thanks.
i've never sat in a 350z, i imagine i wouldn't fit very well either. that's one of the reasons i am partial to the evo. even at 6'2" 240 lbs i can fit very comfortably in the drivers seat.Cry havoc and let slip the dogs of war.Comment
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Mostly the Supras, and 300's that we worked on. Alot of guys would splurge on bigger turbos, boost controls, but wouldn't spend the 80 bucks for a timer.
This is going back over 10 years (1994) since I had a shop, alot of things have definately changed with oil it seems. Mostly oil cooled turbos.
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yeah, surprisingly i don't even need the seat all the way back. it's only about half way on the rail, steering wheel is all the way up on the tilt though, and i sit with the seat back pretty much straight up and down. i get alot better leverage on the wheel that way as oppose to being reclined a bit, or worse yet, back in the pimp position.
Cry havoc and let slip the dogs of war.Comment
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yeah, i have heard that with older cars or ones without water cooling, and especially ones with conventional oil, the timer is a MUST.
i keep a pretty close eye on my oil temp gauge, and generally speaking, unless i am really giving her hell, it barely goes above 90C. i always make sure to drive around casually for a mile or so before shutting the car off to let everything cool off a bit.Cry havoc and let slip the dogs of war.Comment
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looks like a fun ride
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Quoted for the absolute truth.Originally posted by pornopete
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Originally posted by pornopete
tough love is still love, right?
Cry havoc and let slip the dogs of war.Comment
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dude i am 6'4", 250 lb. of stocky man juice and i fit. My wide ass shoulders are a little tight, but overall its a perfect fit.Comment
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Looking at the picture, it looks like someone either made modification by hand or created by hand completely that piece of tubing. The potential is that there are dissimilar metals being used either in the pieces of tubing or in the mount, and that it hastening rust. It looks like it would clean right up, but you would really want to check the source because it is focused around one area which means the material isn't right or wasn't treated properly.Comment
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awesome car
BOOST YOUR SALES!
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I'm 6' and a biscuit shy of 270lbs and my MKIV Supra is cavernous even for me. One of the few 2dr sports cars that has plenty of room laterally and if the seat is all the way back I almost can't reach the peddles. So, if you're a big Popeye chicken eatin' MoFo the Supra is also a good choice to not cramp your style.-Jer
ICQ #489326105
'Build a man a fire and he stays warm for one night. Set a man on fire and he stays warm for the rest of his life.'Comment
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...oh yeah, and the rust is because the BOV flange was added after the fact and not coated in the same manner as the intake pipe it's attached to. The flange is a different material and also unpainted so it's rusted since the intake doesn't warm up enough to burn off any condensation that might form on it after it cools down.
It's not a big deal and would take longer than you own the car for it to cause issues with that weld. If you're concerned you can clean it up and then find a spray paint that comes close to that intake pipe and paint it or for better results just repaint the entire unit so it looks stock. Personally I like to paint my I/C pipes flat black but that's just me.-Jer
ICQ #489326105
'Build a man a fire and he stays warm for one night. Set a man on fire and he stays warm for the rest of his life.'Comment
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Looks like a very nice Z! Without me knowing anything else about it or it's history i say buy it! That's the exact sort of setup i've been looking for!Comment
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