lol, as an experienced shooter, i thought you know the difference between out of focus and camera blur. this is camera blur, shot around 1/60th sec.
there's an aesthetic value to it not being tack sharp but that eludes some. i shoot plenty of images for my own site/use and am granted the freedom of being my own AD. to each his own.
johnny o
. . just an amtaure . i'll leave the pro stuff up to you and arron mathews, dean and donny
OK heres some tips not mentioned...start by shooting in early morning or late evening light (called golden hour)
get your self a good circular polarizer
a light meter is not necessary if you are using a good digital camers most of those have great metering systems including a spot meter mode that will give you all the info you need to calculate the proper exposure
start by using the cameras matrix metering mode and take a few pics noting what it is using then switch to manual and and make subtle changes logging your exposures
remember shutter speed is for exposure and aperture is for depth of feild (generally speaking)
always use fill light with either a fill flash of a reflector or both
you will get the hang of it
Mike South
It's No wonder I took up drugs and alcohol, it's the only way I could dumb myself down enough to cope with the morons in this biz.
OK heres some tips not mentioned...start by shooting in early morning or late evening light (called golden hour)
get your self a good circular polarizer
a light meter is not necessary if you are using a good digital camers most of those have great metering systems including a spot meter mode that will give you all the info you need to calculate the proper exposure
start by using the cameras matrix metering mode and take a few pics noting what it is using then switch to manual and and make subtle changes logging your exposures
remember shutter speed is for exposure and aperture is for depth of feild (generally speaking)
always use fill light with either a fill flash of a reflector or both
scrim or bounce the light to stay within the dynamic range of the sensor and the surfer's monitor.
lots of ways to do it, there is no one "right way". the goal is to make people attractive, and this usually means creating the illusion of natural light. you should bounce or use fill most always if you want good files. shooting in shade will cause most WB to go blue so shoot the girl holding a color chart and then bulk tweak to warm it up. easiest if you are shooting raw.
some cameras require very little post processing. just bought a canon 5d and most images are pretty good straight out---nikon d200 is also good.
fuji pro is also good for high dynamic range and works with nikon lenses, good velvia like color that surfers like.
Well you know, I used to only shoot JPG format but shooting in RAW makes things so much easier. So, try shooting in RAW format and it pretty much does most of it itself.
Oh really? Hm, alright. Next time I will use the defuser plate thing... and give that a shot. I will also not shoot in the direct sunlight... and check the histogram while shooting.
Comment