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the further your umbrella from the light source the more directed it will be, Also new Umbrella's are not very flattering because they are stark white. the older and dirtier they become to more of a flattering affect to models. I'd recommend using a soft box the rule there is the soft box should be twice the size of the subject you are shooting or there abouts.
If I use an umbrella I generally like the shoot through ones.
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