32. Discuss your near death experiences.
Back in 1999, I decided to go out and surf a rather large swell. I have some daredevil blood in me, however, I soon learned that life is very fragile.
I ended up going down in a nasty wave, it was vicious, unforgiving and most of all, humbling. The wave was about 12 foot in size, I badly misjudged it. I was tubbled a long time.
From the beach, the waves were thing of beauty. The problem with gorgeous waves is that sometimes they look like moist, soft pillows and you want to be inside of them; sometimes it is heavenly, and sometimes you get herpes.
My props go out to those guys like Poppy, Mike Hawk and Lars that always seem to get the former. It is a tough sport.
Back in 1999, I decided to go out and surf a rather large swell. I have some daredevil blood in me, however, I soon learned that life is very fragile.
I ended up going down in a nasty wave, it was vicious, unforgiving and most of all, humbling. The wave was about 12 foot in size, I badly misjudged it. I was tubbled a long time.
From the beach, the waves were thing of beauty. The problem with gorgeous waves is that sometimes they look like moist, soft pillows and you want to be inside of them; sometimes it is heavenly, and sometimes you get herpes.
My props go out to those guys like Poppy, Mike Hawk and Lars that always seem to get the former. It is a tough sport.












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