Eddie would Go.
After driving up about 10 minutes from Waimea, we parked in front of an Elementary school. It is quite ironic, the school which represents a place of order sits across from the most famous, the most chaotic, surfing break in the world.
Pipeline.
The Pipeline is actually located on Banzai Beach. The beach is poorly maintained as most of Hawaii?s money is devoted to Waikiki for tourist purposes, leaving the beach eroded from the rip-tide intensity. There is a trash can located immediately upon your entry into Ezukai Beach (the beach located just 20 yards off Pipeline). On it, a bumper sticker:
Eddie would Tow is now a big wave contest held in Hawaii, however it has a much deeper history to locals of the North Shore.
In 1978, Eddie was part of a crew that set out on a canoe ride that came under a ravaging storm. In an effort to save lives, he took his surf board and attempted a 20 mile paddle across the bay. The canoe was eventually found by a helicopter, overturned in the ocean, all passengers saved. The news reel of the passengers getting out of the chopper on the nearest island was broadcast live. Eddie?s body was not found.
The saying ?Eddie would Go? refers to surfers that fear dropping in on a North Shore wave.
After walking through the park, expectations become raised. You begin to realize you are walking a same path that many great photographers and surfers alike have walked. And just before you hit the sand, you are reminded that for some, it was there last walk.
The last Pipeline victim was photographer Jon Mozo. The Pipeline was not large that day.
When you first see this historic site, without a pushing swell, it is nothing special. It is sand meeting ocean at a steep incline. It is erosion. It is lack of state funding. It is everything you can?t see, including the three most famous coral and lava reefs on planet earth.
So let me explain The Pipeline for those that might not understand it. The Pipeline is a break that takes a west swell, usually the result of winter storms in Alaska. These swells end up in places such as California and cause enlarged waves to break once they hit the shallow basins of the shorelines. However, just off Banzai beach, three distinct reefs are located underwater and they are extremely shallow. When the swells hit these reefs, and if they are powerful, the third outlying reef stands the wave up and it forms a huge ?pipe? formation and tubes over. Beneath it, the reef shallows out at about 5 foot or less. If you make a mistake, you end up in the reef, and in even worse cases, underneath it. The wave typically stands up anywhere from 12 to 25 feet.
It was discovered ages ago, but first ridden by a Californian in the 60s. It is all about timing, if you miss your drop zone, you end up in the reef and your life span goes from 30 to 50 more years to potentially 2 minutes pending how much water you can take inside your lungs.
To date, it is considered the best-shaped wave in the world as well as one of the most dangerous. Photographers and surfers worldwide visit it in the wintertime.
Pipeline
