Quote:
Originally posted by Amputate Your Head
I'm cleansed by the ocean pounding my ass into utter submission very single weekend.... trust me... when your face is being driven into the ocean floor at 40 miles an hour and your feet keep traveling over your head, it don't get no cleaner than that......
and beer is most definately required after that... 
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Been getting some use out of that Morey? Its flat here 'till the winter
I only got beat once last year, at Linda Mar (widely known as a the beginner beach for NCal surfing) none the less, and it wasn't that big a wave. It was probably 8-10ft on the face, but the swell period was 14 sec or so, so it was powerful. I got caught inside, saw no way to make it over the top, then I timed my duck dive wrong and got sucked backwards over the falls.
It was the weirdest feeling.. never had it happen before. I grabbed a breath, ducked, and felt the wave moving past me. Thought I'd made it through the wave then I start going upwards with tremendous acceleration.. like some fucking alien ship was beaming me up from underwater. I was upside down going over with the lip before I realized what was happening.
Ended up on my back pinned to the sandy bottom for a second or two and swam 3-4 strokes to get back to the surface. Whole thing lasted maybe 10 seconds, but damn did it frighten me. Its fucking dark down there.. and with the 55 degree water.. ouch.
As I was floating there hanging on to my boogie board and recovering I get freight trained again by the next wave in the set. It just stopped being fun at that point. Didn't go back in the water again for a week or two.