Xenophage

could be but There may be 1 or 2 other people so cant say for sure.
My big big wave riding is behind me. But prolly the biggest wave I have ever surfed is about 12-15 ft at middle peak at steamers lane. I can take all but the biggest days there. But places like mavericks scare the shit outtta me I would never attempt to surf there. Also there are a lot of places in Hawaii I would be afraid to surf. withought someone showing me the ins and outs of certain breeaks. A lot of it for me is knowing the spot intimately and exactly how a wave breaks over the reef swell direction wind and tide are tricky events that cause swells to break totally different each time.But ya learn a spot you can go bigger and bigger. Also the crowd freak me out got too many stitches to count from other fuckers fins who kook out in the water.