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Crutch · 08-15-2001, 02:59 AM

This is a topic i know all to well.

I was surfing in the Monterey bay in the early evening/sunset. It's the most surreal and beautiful time to surf.

It started with the fog comming in within seconds, then the sun went down. It was pitch black with a 15 foot swell. Tons of sharks there as well.

Every time i tried try to get the shore, the swell would increase and break farther out into the ocean behind me. So i had to swing around, and paddle farther and farther out in order not to get crushed by the pressure of the wave slamming down on me. The problem is, they kept coming..one after the other. Huge swells...non stop. I just needed some time to sit and think on what i was going to do to survive this, but i wasn't getting it.
Keep in mind, during this, it's pitch black. I couldn't even see my board underneath me.

Only way i knew a big wave was building and coming, was the pull of the current under me.

After spending a little more then an hour, going over huge wave after wave, there was one wave in particular that I felt was coming. I knew i wasn't going to make it. So i paddled and paddled cause i knew this one was huge..(you can feel it in the current.) So while going up the face of the wave, trying to get over the top, I was so exausted that i didn't make it...the wave crashed while i was 3/4th up the face of it. My leash on my board snapped, and the surfboard was gone. I dove through the wave just in time, and fell about 8 feet behind it.

So now, it's just me in the middle on the Monterey Bay with a increasing 15 foot swell, and no surfboard to rest on. I couldn't even see the shore cause of the fog, not even my hand in front of my face. Nothing..black and cold as hell.

After about 4 hours of swimming miles at an angle with the current, feeling which way the shore was by the current, only treading water at 30 minute intervals to rest, and trying to avoid the undertow that comes with a 15 foot swell, i finally got to shore. I fell on the sand and slept to morning. I found my board about 6 miles away the next day. Though i could barley walk.

It's really amazing the stages your mind goes through during something this. First theres panic, then theres "im going to die..just accept it," then there's, "..just duck yourself under take a deep breath and get it overwidth," and then there's thinking about your family and loved ones. It was my family that kept me going.
Simple fact is, I should have been dead.

It's an experience i'll never forget.

[This message has been edited by Crutch (edited 08-15-2001).]

08-15-2001, 02:59 AM
Crutch Confirmed User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 224	This is a topic i know all to well. I was surfing in the Monterey bay in the early evening/sunset. It's the most surreal and beautiful time to surf. It started with the fog comming in within seconds, then the sun went down. It was pitch black with a 15 foot swell. Tons of sharks there as well. Every time i tried try to get the shore, the swell would increase and break farther out into the ocean behind me. So i had to swing around, and paddle farther and farther out in order not to get crushed by the pressure of the wave slamming down on me. The problem is, they kept coming..one after the other. Huge swells...non stop. I just needed some time to sit and think on what i was going to do to survive this, but i wasn't getting it. Keep in mind, during this, it's pitch black. I couldn't even see my board underneath me. Only way i knew a big wave was building and coming, was the pull of the current under me. After spending a little more then an hour, going over huge wave after wave, there was one wave in particular that I felt was coming. I knew i wasn't going to make it. So i paddled and paddled cause i knew this one was huge..(you can feel it in the current.) So while going up the face of the wave, trying to get over the top, I was so exausted that i didn't make it...the wave crashed while i was 3/4th up the face of it. My leash on my board snapped, and the surfboard was gone. I dove through the wave just in time, and fell about 8 feet behind it. So now, it's just me in the middle on the Monterey Bay with a increasing 15 foot swell, and no surfboard to rest on. I couldn't even see the shore cause of the fog, not even my hand in front of my face. Nothing..black and cold as hell. After about 4 hours of swimming miles at an angle with the current, feeling which way the shore was by the current, only treading water at 30 minute intervals to rest, and trying to avoid the undertow that comes with a 15 foot swell, i finally got to shore. I fell on the sand and slept to morning. I found my board about 6 miles away the next day. Though i could barley walk. It's really amazing the stages your mind goes through during something this. First theres panic, then theres "im going to die..just accept it," then there's, "..just duck yourself under take a deep breath and get it overwidth," and then there's thinking about your family and loved ones. It was my family that kept me going. Simple fact is, I should have been dead. It's an experience i'll never forget. [This message has been edited by Crutch (edited 08-15-2001).]