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When you get to the water, kick back and check it out for a while before going in.... if there are other people, take note of the pattern. Watch how the waves are breaking and how the sets are rolling in. Basically just watch the ocean for a while so you know what's going on before you get out there.
Start with a longboard and small waves and build up over time. Know your limitations. If you feel like a wave is too freakin big, don't take it... it probably is. You'll know when you're ready for something bigger. The first time you get worked good by a big ass wave, you're going to be spinning around wondering which way is up and what the hell you're doing out there.... don't let it set fear into you... get back out there.
Respect mother ocean or she'll kill you.
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SIG TOO BIG
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