another vote for sublime text 2. Fucking love it. Switched from textmate.
for ftp/sftp I use transmit. Worth the couple bucks. Like how I can mount sftp/ftp sites as volumes. So then I can just edit files in sublime direct from the command line.
install
brew to get lots of other packaged goodies.
I use irssi as irc client.
install xcode and then go into the prefs and install command line tools. That's a must.
tweetbot I like for twitter.
evernote.
Those are off the top of my head.