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well, in most cases you want to modify the sidebar, the footer or the header
ftp to your sites, go to wpcontent (I think) -> themes -> open the current theme -> download all the files and keep them in a back up direcotry on your hard drive. Then play with the files you want to modify, fe modify the sidebar, upload and see what happens, if you screw up you have the back-up copy, so you can play around as much as you wish
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